Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rattle/clatter at hot idle.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 03-17-2011, 04:11 PM
94svt50's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 800
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

This is getting to be a bit much. Were could these metal bits be coming from?
 
  #32  
Old 03-17-2011, 08:31 PM
94svt50's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 800
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

I wonder if this is what I have going on, because the metal flakes were not magnetic. This guy had a similar problem that he fixed by changing out big end bearings from underneath. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...uld-bad-21978/
 
  #33  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:24 AM
Bundu's Avatar
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

That post is a perfect example of why not to do an atf flush.
Ok so get some plastigauge, pull your oil pan and gauge your big end bearings, that should give you an answer. Clean your oil pickup while you are there.
 
  #34  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:58 AM
94svt50's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 800
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Where does one get the plastigauge?
 
  #35  
Old 03-18-2011, 08:19 AM
Bundu's Avatar
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Advanced, Autozone, etc. Just ask for it.
 
  #36  
Old 05-04-2011, 12:34 AM
paulncristie1's Avatar
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My 2003 Discovery was doing the same thing. I finally figured it out. I thought it was my oil pump. I then realized that my viscous coupling fan wasn't working properly. Yes it sounded like noisy lifters. The way to test your fan is by starting it when its cold rev it a little and the fan will be engaged for about 30 seconds and then will quiet down until engine is warm and it needs to engage again. After replacing it the ticking sound went away and has not come back. 2003-2004 are year specific, and the fan and clutch is one unit $249.99 at Atlantic British. Buy a new one, clutch (viscous coupling fan) causes more engine failures then people think, silent killer kinda like high blood pressure.
Good luck it worked for me. I have no idea why it caused the intermittent ticking sound just that it did.
Wog
 
  #37  
Old 05-05-2011, 10:03 AM
DiscoveryHouston's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by paulncristie1
My 2003 Discovery was doing the same thing. I finally figured it out. I thought it was my oil pump. I then realized that my viscous coupling fan wasn't working properly. Yes it sounded like noisy lifters. The way to test your fan is by starting it when its cold rev it a little and the fan will be engaged for about 30 seconds and then will quiet down until engine is warm and it needs to engage again. After replacing it the ticking sound went away and has not come back. 2003-2004 are year specific, and the fan and clutch is one unit $249.99 at Atlantic British. Buy a new one, clutch (viscous coupling fan) causes more engine failures then people think, silent killer kinda like high blood pressure.
Good luck it worked for me. I have no idea why it caused the intermittent ticking sound just that it did.
Wog
So if the fan doesn't engage it self after the motor has warmed up ( 30-45 seconds ) the fan & clutch are going bad. What should happen? Should the fan engage itself?
 
  #38  
Old 05-05-2011, 10:11 AM
Bundu's Avatar
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Quote from rave 26-2-9:

The viscous fan provides a means of controlling the speed of the fan relative to the operating temperature of the
engine. The fan rotation draws air through the radiator, reducing engine coolant temperatures when the vehicle is
stationary or moving slowly.
The viscous fan is attached to the coolant pump drive pulley and secured to the pulley by a nut. The nut is positively
attached to a spindle which is supported on bearings in the fan body. The viscous drive comprises a circular drive
plate attached to the spindle and driven from the coolant pump pulley and the coupling body. The drive plate and the
body have interlocking annular grooves with a small clearance which provides the drive when silicone fluid enters the
fluid chamber. A bi-metallic coil is fitted externally on the forward face of the body. The coil is connected to and
operates a valve in the body. The valve operates on a valve plate with ports that connect the reservoir to the fluid
chamber. The valve plate also has return ports which, when the valve is closed, scoop fluid from the fluid chamber
and push it into the reservoir under centrifugal force.
Silicone fluid is retained in a reservoir at the front of the body. When the engine is off and the fan is stationary, the
silicone fluid level stabilises between the reservoir and the fluid chamber. This will result in the fan operating when the
engine is started, but the drive will be removed quickly after the fan starts rotating and the fan will 'freewheel'.
At low radiator temperatures, the fan operation is not required and the bi-metallic coil keeps the valve closed,
separating the silicone fluid from the drive plate. This allows the fan to 'freewheel' reducing the load on the engine,
improving fuel consumption and reducing noise generated by the rotation of the fan.
When the radiator temperature increases, the bi-metallic coil reacts and moves the valve, allowing the silicone fluid
to flow into the fluid chamber. The resistance to shear of the silicone fluid creates drag on the drive plate and provides
drive to the body and the fan blades.
 
  #39  
Old 05-05-2011, 10:39 AM
DiscoveryHouston's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

My absolute worst fear since owning my Disco has been overheating. I think Im just going to bite the bullet and replace every friggin' thing that has to do with the coolant sytem. I have no overheating issues, its just my excuse to do alittle PM ( preventative maintanence ) if thats what ya want to call it. Cause the last thing Im gonna have to worry about is being stranded. I did the same thing with my Vette and Mustang when I purchased them used. Gave me peace of mine as well.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
94svt50
Discovery II
23
07-08-2012 03:31 PM
94svt50
Discovery II
21
03-04-2011 11:59 AM
LRScott
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
13
04-07-2010 02:26 AM
twmj1953
Discovery II
15
09-29-2009 09:49 PM
zerochills
Discovery II
2
01-28-2008 10:39 AM



Quick Reply: Rattle/clatter at hot idle.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:16 AM.