Rattling in engine bay???
#1
08-25-2008 | 07:20 PM
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Rattling in engine bay???
Hello everyone. I'm definitely new to Land Rovers, but I'm very excited about it.
I just got a 1995 Disco 1 for cheap on ebay, which seems to be pretty solid. Right now there are two major issues needing attention, and some more minor ones that I'm curious about. Thanks in advance for the help and recommendations.
1. There's thisclangingcoming fromthe engine bay. It sounds like metal on metal, and seems louder at lower RPMS. It doesn't correlate 1 to 1 with the rpms, but it does seem to increase in frequency with the RPMs. I might be crazy, but it seems like it's coming from the passenger side of the bay too... I could be wrong on that though...
The engine doesn't puff a bit of smoke. And believe it or not doesn't leak any oil or coolant. The PO said his shop checked it out and found it to be "an oil line filter that goes from the oil pump..." Or something like that, they were from the Ukraine... classic experience really. They were certain it had nothing to do with performance or a risk to the motor. The engine pulls strong, and has no hesitation or anything. It drove the 280mi home from Philly like a champ, up to 70mph at times no problems at all... It might have slightly noisy valves, but don't most older vehicles with over 100k? (I've had a ton of old BMWs, and they ALL have had noisy valves, and yet drive and drive and drive and drive... my current bimmer beater has 200k on the clock and doesn't leak or burn any oil or coolant whatsoever... just don't make em like they used to...)
I've looked into possible parts, and found there's the"oil pick-up line" coming off the oil pump?... could that be what he was talking about? Could that lead to a clanking sound? Are there other usual suspects on this engine that I need to have checked out before I can not worry?
There aren't very many shops in Pittsburgh that work on european vehicles in general, let alone british ones. There's one pretty close to me, that knows his way around a car, but I'm not certain he'd be the best at distinguishing what a certain engine sound could and would mean in a Land Rover... much like myself... There is a LR dealership not too far from me in the other direction too... On this issue is it worth the big bucks to have them take a look at it?
2. The brakes are extremely soft, with a dripping master cylinder, and what appears to be some epoxy on it... seems like a pretty slam dunk cause and effect there. The ABS light is on, which I would think relates to the problematic brake pressure? Hopefully correct itself once the MC is replaced? Otherwise could be one ofthose blasted sensor issues right?
3. SRS light is on. Probably the timed light, set to go off regardless of function? Worth having the Dealership interrogate? Or not?
4. Rear windows and Sunroof don't work... Not the biggest deal to me yet, as the kids don't ride with me that much, and it does have good AC...
Usual suspects on that?
On a side note, I LOVE the jump seats. I grew up sitting in Volvo wagon jump seats...
Thanks for all of the help!
Nate
I just got a 1995 Disco 1 for cheap on ebay, which seems to be pretty solid. Right now there are two major issues needing attention, and some more minor ones that I'm curious about. Thanks in advance for the help and recommendations.
1. There's thisclangingcoming fromthe engine bay. It sounds like metal on metal, and seems louder at lower RPMS. It doesn't correlate 1 to 1 with the rpms, but it does seem to increase in frequency with the RPMs. I might be crazy, but it seems like it's coming from the passenger side of the bay too... I could be wrong on that though...
The engine doesn't puff a bit of smoke. And believe it or not doesn't leak any oil or coolant. The PO said his shop checked it out and found it to be "an oil line filter that goes from the oil pump..." Or something like that, they were from the Ukraine... classic experience really. They were certain it had nothing to do with performance or a risk to the motor. The engine pulls strong, and has no hesitation or anything. It drove the 280mi home from Philly like a champ, up to 70mph at times no problems at all... It might have slightly noisy valves, but don't most older vehicles with over 100k? (I've had a ton of old BMWs, and they ALL have had noisy valves, and yet drive and drive and drive and drive... my current bimmer beater has 200k on the clock and doesn't leak or burn any oil or coolant whatsoever... just don't make em like they used to...)
I've looked into possible parts, and found there's the"oil pick-up line" coming off the oil pump?... could that be what he was talking about? Could that lead to a clanking sound? Are there other usual suspects on this engine that I need to have checked out before I can not worry?
There aren't very many shops in Pittsburgh that work on european vehicles in general, let alone british ones. There's one pretty close to me, that knows his way around a car, but I'm not certain he'd be the best at distinguishing what a certain engine sound could and would mean in a Land Rover... much like myself... There is a LR dealership not too far from me in the other direction too... On this issue is it worth the big bucks to have them take a look at it?
2. The brakes are extremely soft, with a dripping master cylinder, and what appears to be some epoxy on it... seems like a pretty slam dunk cause and effect there. The ABS light is on, which I would think relates to the problematic brake pressure? Hopefully correct itself once the MC is replaced? Otherwise could be one ofthose blasted sensor issues right?
3. SRS light is on. Probably the timed light, set to go off regardless of function? Worth having the Dealership interrogate? Or not?
4. Rear windows and Sunroof don't work... Not the biggest deal to me yet, as the kids don't ride with me that much, and it does have good AC...
Usual suspects on that? On a side note, I LOVE the jump seats. I grew up sitting in Volvo wagon jump seats...
Thanks for all of the help!
Nate
#2
08-25-2008 | 08:29 PM
RE: Rattling in engine bay???
Whew! I am winded from reading all of that.
Check your alternator for the clanging noise. Remove the belt, start the truck and see if the noise is still there. When the alternator bearings on my '97 went bad it sounded like a rod knock.
If the whole back of the truck doesnt work, both windows and rear sunroof then I am going to say it is the circuit board for the windows. They crack and then things dont work. If you resolder the cracks then all is good again.I cant find the link for the how too.
If you use the wrong gas then these engines will carbon up on the exhaust valves, and cheap oil and to long before oil changes will sludge the hell out of these engines also.
The mechanic from the Ukraine is right, the screen on the oil pick up tube and clog with sludge.
If your engine is sludged up do not flush it, you will have to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pick up tube.
If you switch to full synthetic motor oil it will clean the engine as you drive.
My truck had 152k when I bought it and it wasnt sludged to bad, switched to Mobil 1 and didnt look back. I now have 174k, I change my oil every 5,000 miles.
www.atlanticbritish.com for all your LR needs, and check out their tech tips too.
Replace your master cylnder, you probally havea bad wheel sensor though.
Um, yeah, I'm out of breath. Any more questions just shout.
Check your alternator for the clanging noise. Remove the belt, start the truck and see if the noise is still there. When the alternator bearings on my '97 went bad it sounded like a rod knock.
If the whole back of the truck doesnt work, both windows and rear sunroof then I am going to say it is the circuit board for the windows. They crack and then things dont work. If you resolder the cracks then all is good again.I cant find the link for the how too.
If you use the wrong gas then these engines will carbon up on the exhaust valves, and cheap oil and to long before oil changes will sludge the hell out of these engines also.
The mechanic from the Ukraine is right, the screen on the oil pick up tube and clog with sludge.
If your engine is sludged up do not flush it, you will have to remove the oil pan and clean the oil pick up tube.
If you switch to full synthetic motor oil it will clean the engine as you drive.
My truck had 152k when I bought it and it wasnt sludged to bad, switched to Mobil 1 and didnt look back. I now have 174k, I change my oil every 5,000 miles.
www.atlanticbritish.com for all your LR needs, and check out their tech tips too.
Replace your master cylnder, you probally havea bad wheel sensor though.
Um, yeah, I'm out of breath. Any more questions just shout.
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