I just fixed mine. There is a adjustment screw which backed off which eventually made the door require more and more quick force until it no longer opened.





It should be like this: Black lines move as one piece, no rotation

 

Ohhhh the very rear door...... sorry, that's for the 2nd row of doors.

 

everyone listen to photocrimes solution, it is the correct one. also, i know everyone is being helpful, but "remove door panel" is not a good and time effective solution to this problem. i have this problem 2x per year, usually with a change in seasons, i think gunk gets into the mechanicsm and then clogs things up and i cant open the latch, and door remains shut.

solution:

wd40 spray. take thin flat tip screwdriver, pry out the land rover oval plastic thing near the latch. then put a rag underneath where you will be spraying as wd40 is not good on paint, and spray the spring, and latch mechanism liberally and try the latch several times and respray, it should open the door. when the door is open, there is a small latch that says unlock and look, make sure it is on lock i think, that will catch the door when it is closed.

again,
do not need to take apart door panel
do not need new latch

 

Being new to owning a LR (disco2), I'm learning some of the quirks of the vehicle as I go. Having access to this forum is a lifesaver.

Yesterday, first day of school, my wife piles the kids in the car but cannot close the rear hatch. It just 'bounced' when she tried. Resourceful woman that she is, she used some material to tie it in place (from the inside), but had no idea how to fix it.

A quick search of the forum, voila!

I drove home for lunch, popped the LR logo, sprayed a little wd40 to lubricate the action, added a dab of silicone lubricant for longevity, and boom - job was done, perhaps 6 minutes total (including grabbing the tools and lubricants).

I appreciate the knowledge you all are willing to share!

 

WD40 has killed the power locks on my Disco. I used to have just 2 doors that didn't actuate (Driver side front and back). After the barn door got stuck and I sprayed it down with WD and some lith the power lock stopped working. But I one up this by thinking "oh, I'll just spray all the doors down so I down get into this again."

DOH!

Whouldn't you know it. I now have one door with power locks or power lock. And all I did was spray the visible latch mech on each door.

So to all of you wizards - What now?

How in the heck did WD kill the power locks?

And no I didn't drinch them. A light spray a wipe down then a quick shot of lith.

Any ideas? The barn door opens a closes like a champ though. Too bad I can't lock it because I would have to climb over the back seats to unlock it each time.

 

I really doubt wd40 killed your power locks. The active ingredient in wd40 is just fish oil. It's also non-conductive. I have sprayed down whole electrical systems to dry them out with no issues.

 

I don't doubt it... WD40 is non-conductive like you said... could very well insulate electrical contacts!!

Spray down with electrical contact cleaner, let dry, do it again, let dry, then test again.

 

And also, read this thread if you still can't get the thing to work
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-new-one-3375/

 

I agree. I use WD on everything and it has never done anything to hurt a single item. I almost pour it over the engine bay before I go offroad and I don't worry about getting it on electrical parts. I have never had an issue with it.

I'm just at a loss because I sprayed the latch mech on the door the part you can see when you open the door and then there is a loss of power locks????

I'll check out the post you have here and see if can help me figure out what has happened.

 

so the only way to open your rear door is from the inside??

My issue is this - my actuator will lock but not unlock. so if I lock the doors and then unlock them with the remote, the rear door will not unlock. I have to climb inside and open from within.

150 for an actuator seems high.