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Rear window not working, fuse is good, switch is good, motor is good. Help please :-)

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Old May 27, 2019 | 06:11 PM
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Butthump's Avatar
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Default Rear window not working, fuse is good, switch is good, motor is good. Baffled!

I have a 2000 Disco, rear right window is not rolling up or down. The first thing I did was check the fuse which also works the rear left, that one works fine by the way. Fuse was good, replaced it with a new one just for the hell of it. Next thing I did was test the switch by swapping the left to right and the right to left plug. Switch is good, it rolled my left window. Since fuse and switch were good, I figured it was the motor, so I took the door panel apart, I went to the junkyard came back with three motors, yeah got two backups just in case. Tried all three, none of them working when connected to the plug. Even though it would be extremely rare to have four bad motors, I decided to test them directly with wires and battery, all four motors power up. So my issue is somewhere in the car. Don't think I would have a short, never messed with wires. I don't have any electrical alterations. The Disco has never been under water. And the rear left side is still working like I said. I cleaned the plug out, made sure to plug it in and out several times just to check it. Both at the motor connection and the extension inside the door panel. Any suggestions?

 

Last edited by Butthump; May 30, 2019 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Update
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Old May 30, 2019 | 08:11 AM
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Someone pointed me to the wiring at the hinge, does anybody have a suggestion on how to test it? Thanks.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 08:35 AM
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Rock Crawling
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From: Boiling Springs, SC
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From the RAVE Manual -

The rear windows are hard-wired and the two electric sunroofs are controlled by a dedicated ECU which is enabled by the BCU
The rear windows are enabled by the IDM controlling the operation of the rear window relay located in the passenger
compartment fuse box.

The BCU does not directly control rear window operation, but it can request the IDM to remove the power feed to the
rear windows. The IDM enables power supply to be provided to the rear lift relay in the passenger fuse box. When the
relay coil is energised the relay contacts close and power is applied to the rear window motor. If the window lift
isolation switch located in the centre console is latched out, the earth path from the LH and RH rear door window
switches is broken and operation of the rear window motors through the use of the rear window switches is prevented.
Rear window operation using the console switches is not affected by the isolation switch.
In the event of a communications link failure occurring while rear window enable is on, the relay remains on until the
ignition switch is turned to the off position.


If any more testing you do fails, easiest replacement might be the Fusebox which is where the IDM lives.
I had to replace mine for a rear wiper/door lock issue - Just remember when you start to pull the fusebox out, turn it towards the left to pull the plugs out before trying to remove it from the dash opening.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 08:55 PM
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Baja
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From: Lynchburg VA
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Both LH and RH switches work the same way, basically power goes throught the console switches through the door switches at all times, the switches ground one side of the motor or the other to go up or down. Check for power at the switches in the console and at the door, if you don't have power you have a ground issue. Check the grounds at the switches also (black wire).
 
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 12:48 PM
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Thank you gentleman for all the help and suggestions. Finally got this sucker fixed! I've owned this Rover for almost 14 years now, have done dozens and dozens of repairs over the years so I'm not a newbie. But even the most capable guy / mechanic, feels a little dumb every now and then. Long story short it ended up being that I didn't have the switch connected to the door. With the switch not plugged in, the switch at the center console doesn't work at all. It makes it appear as if the plug for the motor is dead. Simply plugging the door switch back in gives power back to the "dead" plug, and all of the replacements I bought from the junkyard rolled up and down. My original motor was shot even though it still spun. I put in one of the replacements, had the window working in less than 30 minutes :-) So if anybody else has a window issue, and is testing out motors, make sure you plug the switch at the door back in before you test your motors. Have a good day guys!
 
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