Rear Windows Not Working, ECU SOLDER?
This ONLY works on a DI, DII's you need a new power window regulator.
Thread Starter
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Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 8
From: Gramercy, La
I could have, it was so simple though and I already saw about two write-ups on it. The hardest part was getting that stupid connector off the top. It was a major pain. After I pulled it out I saw one spot that was definatly bad, just added some solder to it, Im not good at all with a solder iron but it looked really good after, and I saw a second spot that looked iffy so I hit it too.
Then I plugged it back into the truck without putting it in its little box. And it worked!! Then I turned the truck off and removed the paper I was using as the isulator so it didn't short, and who would have guess. I heard something short.. Tested it out, no more front windows. Checked the 30amp fuse and it was burnt, replaced it and was good to go.
Then I plugged it back into the truck without putting it in its little box. And it worked!! Then I turned the truck off and removed the paper I was using as the isulator so it didn't short, and who would have guess. I heard something short.. Tested it out, no more front windows. Checked the 30amp fuse and it was burnt, replaced it and was good to go.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: La Quinta, California
Yes, REAR windows are usually the problem with this thing.
The plug does come off a little hard...as I remember there is some sort of a lock tab arrangement there.
Once it's out , the plastic case( cover) will pop off the circuit board.....and normally there is an obviously bad solder point, may even look burnt a little...and a little solder there is normally all that's needed. If you search here a little more there are some pics by others who have done this.
if all else fails, like I said I can fax you a easy diagram on how to bypass this, a couple connectors and about 2' of wire are all you need.
good luck
The plug does come off a little hard...as I remember there is some sort of a lock tab arrangement there.
Once it's out , the plastic case( cover) will pop off the circuit board.....and normally there is an obviously bad solder point, may even look burnt a little...and a little solder there is normally all that's needed. If you search here a little more there are some pics by others who have done this.
if all else fails, like I said I can fax you a easy diagram on how to bypass this, a couple connectors and about 2' of wire are all you need.
good luck
Thanks now and forever.
good luck
Take your soldering pencil and melt the solder and use solder sucker to remove it.
Flux the area to be repaired, resolder.
Let it cool and put it back together.
Look for other bad spots too.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm?bc=ab
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
I did mine right after I bought my 97 three years ago. There were some write ups on other forums. You can remove the circuit board from it's housing with a little determination.
As I remember mine was not burnt, just cracked, also known as a "cold solder joint"
It was pretty obvious if you put a little pressure on the component lead goiong into the circuit board. I reflowed allthe solder joints on mine while I had the board out. I hate to redo something if I can avoid it. The ECU is right behind the glove box on the DI.
As I remember mine was not burnt, just cracked, also known as a "cold solder joint"
It was pretty obvious if you put a little pressure on the component lead goiong into the circuit board. I reflowed allthe solder joints on mine while I had the board out. I hate to redo something if I can avoid it. The ECU is right behind the glove box on the DI.
Thread Starter
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Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 8
From: Gramercy, La
I just wanted to point out that you do not need to remove any nuts or screws, to remove the glove box. They have little slots for the wheels to slip through. Press the wheels up and they will go right through the slots
