Received an eBay, 150A, made in China alternator for the D2 this week that was very poorly packaged and dead on arrival.

Nevertheless, I wanted to share some photos to compare my OEM Bosch 130A alternator to the no-name made in China version (this is not the Made in China Bosch). Figured this may be of use to someone since the physical differences look interesting and I haven’t seen anyone discuss them otherwise. Definitely would AVOID these made in China alternators, despite the cheap price.

I determined it was dead after installing it, realizing the battery was discharging while running, and confirmed no output with a multimeter.

Photos taken with the rear plastic covers off.


Made in China top, Bosch OEM bottom

Made in China

OEM


Made in China - The main positive connector is a free floating screw that doesn’t seem to positively connect unlike the OEM Bosch

Bosch OEM - Solidly mounted screw without play

Another view of made in China version

 

I have been running a Bosch 150A (AL0807N) for years. If your running extras it's a chance to upgrade. If using Ebay they can be had for cheaper from LActrical remans (150A or 130A) w/ no core. I ran one of those in my P38 without issue. How much of a savings would the China one have saved vs. Bosch?

 

The China one was $161 shipped, way less than anything Bosch so I decided to roll the dice. Fortunately they're going to refund me without needing to return it.

I'm looking to install an electic power steering pump, electric fans, and electric water pump, so I'm thinking I may need to go with a 200A alternator...which sadly is way more expensive.

 

I was able to pick up a used bosch 150 amp from part-out for 100 or 150 shipped, I cant remember. If I were you I would look for that

 

I think adding electric fans, Volvo power steering pump, and electric water pump will cause my power draw to exceed 150A, otherwise I'd definitely go that route. I think those additions could bring loads up to 160A or more.

 

Understandable. You'll have to let us know how it goes! I'm going to do a Flow Kooler water pump on my new engine, but I've heard good things from some guys I know with electric ones. Not being idle dependant would be nice, but also I have never dealt with the truck overheating when rock crawling, which is what I feel like the best use case is for one. I also long ago swapped out my rover fan clutch for a Hayden 2786 clutch, which are like $40 and pull a lot more air, so I don't have a need for e fans. But I am very interested in the Volvo pump, got anymore details there?

 

Mntnceguy did writeup on the Volvo pump. 10/10 write up imo.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...0-pump-123247/

 

there is a dodge pump that works as well and is a horizontal pump vs the vertical like the volvo if that suits your space better. I linked a controller in that thread that has options for either pump

 

Yes, and No... sort of

While you may have a possible MAX usage of 150amps, it will be fairly rare that you will actually use all of that, at the same time, for an extended period of time. Normally, the power steering will pull 10 or less during normal running, same for the fans, and even the electric water pump if you go that route. They would only all be pulling max amps at the same time, if the fans and water pump started up cold under excessive load, while the steering was being forcefully turned one way into it's locks causing it to spike at full amperage draw continuously. I mean, what are the chances you do that... and... what are the chances you do it regularly, and for long periods of time? I say it like that, because I think most folks forget that the battery is the main power source in the vehicle, and is made specifically to deal with power draw spikes, while the alternator keeps it topped off by replenishing it's charge. So, in a heathy system, you'd have to run your stuff long and hard enough to drain the battery fast enough to negate the charge coming from the alternator altogether.

So, yea, if you can afford the big price tag high amperage alternator, go ahead and get one, why not, right? But don't feel like it is going to be a MUST HAVE for the couple components you're considering. The 150 should handle those things fine under most foreseeable conditions.

If you do find a good source for the Electric Water Pumps, I'd be interested in hearing about them. I've seen they are quite pricey, but I'd still like to try one. For what it's worth, the FlowKooler water pump is a great upgrade from stock, but I don't think it's the best with the Extinct Inline Thermostat mod as it flows a good amount more pressure than the stock unit did. I'll personally be ditching the Inline Thermostat mod ASAP as it's ability to work properly in cold weather is substantially less than desirable. I'll be installing the Jaguar/Ford hot side bypass thermostat assembly in the next month or so, as I'm really sick of having to run cardboard in front of my radiator in anything below 50 degree weather, and constantly having to reset the P0126 code, lol. PITA! Not to mention, as I later realized, the Inline Therm basically uses the heater core as the bypass in the system. Coupled with the higher flow and pressures of the FlowKooler WP, let's just say I'm not comforted by those thoughts. The FlowKooler is awesome and works great, really brings the temps down quick at lower RPM's, makes bleeding the system easier as well, does a great job in all conditions, highly recommended upgrade.

P.S. you can free up some amps, quite a few actually, by replacing all your bulbs with LED's. Also, you can get a bigger Amp Hour battery to give ya some cushion as well, as a cheaper alternative to a $1000 alternator to handle those occasional full load draw situations, I mean.

Anyway, sorry to ramble.... Happy Modding!

 

^^^This! This IS the way your charging system works and how electrical loads work. Your battery bears the burden of supplying those devices. A larger capacity alternator is not needed for your use case.

Yes, I am an electrical engineer.