Originally Posted by Mntnceguy

Yes, and No... sort of

...

.... Happy Modding!

Originally Posted by H20nSnow

^^^This! This IS the way your charging system works and how electrical loads work. Your battery bears the burden of supplying those devices. A larger capacity alternator is not needed for your use case.

Yes, I am an electrical engineer.

Originally Posted by CharminULTRA

The man himself...thanks for chiming in! This brings me a lot of comfort and I appreciate the detailed explanation. I was looking at the 200A alternators for $400 from PowerBastards and REALLY wasn't ready to bite that bullet.

I think I'll try going to go for the used P38 150A route, once I have the upgrades in, I can do some OBDII monitoring of my battery voltage to see how it reacts over time.

Originally Posted by Mntnceguy

Yes, and No... sort of

While you may have a possible MAX usage of 150amps, it will be fairly rare that you will actually use all of that, at the same time, for an extended period of time. Normally, the power steering will pull 10 or less during normal running, same for the fans, and even the electric water pump if you go that route. They would only all be pulling max amps at the same time, if the fans and water pump started up cold under excessive load, while the steering was being forcefully turned one way into it's locks causing it to spike at full amperage draw continuously. I mean, what are the chances you do that... and... what are the chances you do it regularly, and for long periods of time? I say it like that, because I think most folks forget that the battery is the main power source in the vehicle, and is made specifically to deal with power draw spikes, while the alternator keeps it topped off by replenishing it's charge. So, in a heathy system, you'd have to run your stuff long and hard enough to drain the battery fast enough to negate the charge coming from the alternator altogether.

So, yea, if you can afford the big price tag high amperage alternator, go ahead and get one, why not, right? But don't feel like it is going to be a MUST HAVE for the couple components you're considering. The 150 should handle those things fine under most foreseeable conditions.

If you do find a good source for the Electric Water Pumps, I'd be interested in hearing about them. I've seen they are quite pricey, but I'd still like to try one. For what it's worth, the FlowKooler water pump is a great upgrade from stock, but I don't think it's the best with the Extinct Inline Thermostat mod as it flows a good amount more pressure than the stock unit did. I'll personally be ditching the Inline Thermostat mod ASAP as it's ability to work properly in cold weather is substantially less than desirable. I'll be installing the Jaguar/Ford hot side bypass thermostat assembly in the next month or so, as I'm really sick of having to run cardboard in front of my radiator in anything below 50 degree weather, and constantly having to reset the P0126 code, lol. PITA! Not to mention, as I later realized, the Inline Therm basically uses the heater core as the bypass in the system. Coupled with the higher flow and pressures of the FlowKooler WP, let's just say I'm not comforted by those thoughts. The FlowKooler is awesome and works great, really brings the temps down quick at lower RPM's, makes bleeding the system easier as well, does a great job in all conditions, highly recommended upgrade.

P.S. you can free up some amps, quite a few actually, by replacing all your bulbs with LED's. Also, you can get a bigger Amp Hour battery to give ya some cushion as well, as a cheaper alternative to a $1000 alternator to handle those occasional full load draw situations, I mean.

Anyway, sorry to ramble.... Happy Modding!

Originally Posted by H20nSnow

^^^This! This IS the way your charging system works and how electrical loads work. Your battery bears the burden of supplying those devices. A larger capacity alternator is not needed for your use case.

Yes, I am an electrical engineer.

Originally Posted by Mntnceguy

For what it's worth, the FlowKooler water pump is a great upgrade from stock, but I don't think it's the best with the Extinct Inline Thermostat mod as it flows a good amount more pressure than the stock unit did. I'll personally be ditching the Inline Thermostat mod ASAP as it's ability to work properly in cold weather is substantially less than desirable. I'll be installing the Jaguar/Ford hot side bypass thermostat assembly in the next month or so, as I'm really sick of having to run cardboard in front of my radiator in anything below 50 degree weather, and constantly having to reset the P0126 code, lol. PITA! Not to mention, as I later realized, the Inline Therm basically uses the heater core as the bypass in the system. Coupled with the higher flow and pressures of the FlowKooler WP, let's just say I'm not comforted by those thoughts. The FlowKooler is awesome and works great, really brings the temps down quick at lower RPM's, makes bleeding the system easier as well, does a great job in all conditions, highly recommended upgrade.

Originally Posted by ttr55

I'm eternally grateful for people like you. I am a mechanical engineering student, and intro to ECE was one of the worst classes I've had to do. I can do DC stuff fine, so I am (somewhat) comfortable with car wiring, but AC stuff is confusing to me. Although I of course have a dynamic systems class that includes AC circuits, so I'm not out of the woods yet lol.

Originally Posted by Bone9

Hi, have you got any more details on the jag/ford thermostat housing install?

Originally Posted by ttr55

Is the stock thermostat really that problematic? I mean I get that the inline one is nice with more temperature customization and cheap replaceable elements, but it hasn't been an issue for me. Back when I first got my D2 I had a lot more thermostat issues. But I stopped using parts store thermostats and got the grey 180 degree genuine one from lucky8. I haven't had any problems with it getting stuck open or closed sense then, and my truck runs at a pretty optimal temp. I stay at 185-194 while driving around, getting up to 198 at a stoplight and 204 at the absolute max. Stock water pump, nissens rad, a hayden 2786 fan clutch. I plan on doing a Flow Koller pump when I put a new engine in though, I've heard great things about them.

Originally Posted by Mntnceguy

I will likely do a thread about it when I get it done and working, but the info I'm using so far are these two threads:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...36/#post920585
https://discoweb.org/index.php?threa...mod-3-0.95160/

And other than using RockAuto for the hose, coolant, and thermostat (I'll likely use the Motorad Superstat 2034-192), I found these sources for other parts. Although I will say that I am still waiting for my housing from AliExpress, so I am reserving judgement about it's quality and will wait to decide if I'll use it until I can see and inspect it:
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256807...apt=4itemAdapt
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9PY9V9N...lig_dp_it&th=1

Anyway, hope that helps get ya started...



I feel like I need to be a bit careful here. I'm going to do my best to say this as nicely as I can, and will ask to have my following words taken with a grain of salt, as I am still fairly upset and feeling betrayed and taken advantage of by the inline thermostat debacle. (how can someone sell something in good conscience that sets CEL, and doesn't work in the winter???)

As an old professional Auto mechanic, I did not like the thermostat being so low, and having a plastic housing with an element that was all but designed to fail. When I saw the sticky on this forum about a guy selling a replacement for that system, I trusted that it was legit and well thought out info. I was naive it seems, as a large portion of the info from that source is not from the Automotive world, but more from what seems to be a glorified conveyor belt repair tech who I later discovered has some pretty interesting, and blatantly wrong views about simple subjects such as coolant, oils, head studs/bolts, and a myriad of other back yard theories about automotive mechanical systems (he even sells sight bolts to folks while telling them they'll work for gear oil and transmission fluids, and then bends them over for a 650% markup...lmfao! Pretty easy to see he's NOT trying to do the Land Rover community ANY favors...)

Anyway, to your point, no, I do NOT think the inline thermostat is an improvement to the OE setup, unless you are in an area that never sees weather below 70 degrees. A good OE thermostat will do the job better than the inline, everyday. And if I knew then what I know now, I would not have wasted my money. But, if you're like me, and see that having the thermostat low in the system, being designed the way it is with a plastic body and a weak bypass that's all but guaranteed to fail badly, and would like to improve that system, then a metal housing with hot side bypass and replaceable thermostat elements mounted up high like it should've been is definitely in your future...

Originally Posted by jastutte

gonna have to strongly disagree with your assessment of a fellow Discovery enthusiast. i have run the inline thermostat in two different '04s and never throw CEL codes even at ambient temps of 1 degree Fahrenheit. not sure why you are having those issues.

it's fine to disagree about the validity of mods that others have done and sell. but, to go after their character is unwarranted and for better or worse, shows yours.

the person you are referring to provides research and services to the Land Rover Discovery community. to accuse him of dishonesty and attempting to take advantage of others is uncalled for, and from what i have seen, untrue.