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Relay, Fuses, Frustration

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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 11:43 PM
  #11  
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So, I put together a 30 amp circuit breaker on the number 4 engine bay fuse and started the engine. I was going through the motions and pushed in the rear windshield washer button -- the engine stopped. I unplugged it, and pushed the front -- the engine stopped again.......
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 12:35 AM
  #12  
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Well, fuse #4 is supposed to be 20 amp, and it powers the wash pump, which is down behind the front bumper. Should not need to be present for vehicle to crank and run. However, if shorted, throwing a dead short on things can make other electrical things act up.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:22 AM
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Thanks. I erroneously said 4, which is 20 amp and not blown. I meant to say FL3, the relay. In any event, the gloves are off. I understood the wiper motors were under the dash, which is a daunting task. If under the bumper...
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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The pumps are under the bumper. If you look at the circuit diagrams, they have tiny numbers at connectors. The connector number can be looked up in the electrical library, and there are usually color pictures. From looks of attached pix you may be able to wiggle under there and unplug the pump. If repeated tests don't blow fuse or breaker, the you have isolated the issue. With over current, don't ignore possibility that insulation has been laid bare by a "rub".
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 10:53 AM
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SB, please change your moniker to Super "Man" Moderator". Now I am even more eager to get home from work. Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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I think there are plenty of real supermen in Calgary - you can have a lot of fun with 4 horse power.
 
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Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Oct 3, 2013 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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You do not miss a thing SB. Tickets go on sale next week for the Stampede 2014! The first 30 rounds at the saloon are on me! Ok, disconnected the pump wires but all was well. Disconnected the engine bay fuse box and saw that the lead to the alternator went negative. Should it be grounded?? The powerprobe was finding the steering column to be negative as well as all the wires going into the back of the wheel. I have a major short.....
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #18  
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Greetings, my Intel mate showed up yesterday and we did a lot of work. He is pretty sure it is the BCM because of sunroofs, windows, dash, compass rearview wipers etc. are all gone. Here is an interesting test from this morning. So the FOB will alarm the truck, but will not lock it. Inside the switch will work, but it will also illuminate the dash lights and engage the rear wiper and pressing the lock and unlock button in and out will get the wiper to move up and down. BCM? any thoughts sage ones? thanks.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:09 PM
  #19  
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My "go-to" parts place advised me that it could send the BCU down to Texas and have it rebuilt for about $100 bones. Keeping the same unit would avoid reprogramming etc. Have any of you tried this route? If so, names of your computer establishment? I am also going to the Stealer tomorrow to see if they can test it and if need be, flash it and upgrade the software. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 05:01 PM
  #20  
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To bring this matter full circle, I just got my Rover back from the Shop (I have to exhaust all resources and energy prior to going to the shop -- like all of you). Both fuse boxes were replaced and all is well. How and why both had internal shorts is beyond all of our imaginations. I looked at both and there was no corrosion found in either one. In any event, what a PITA, but happy to have her back now that the first snow has fallen. Thanks for all of your assistance.
 
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