Remanufactured Engine Recommendations/Reviews
I have a '03 with a Turner 4.6 in it. I bought the D2 from a local shop. The shop owner was a D2 fan, drove one daily, and usually had several on-site in various conditions. The one I bought was towed there not running, and the prior owner decided to sell it to the shop instead of fixing it. I bought it from the shop and did a deal with them to replace the engine and ton of other work. Shop ordered the engine from Turner and did the work.
Have done about 85K miles on the Turner, zero engine issues. My D2 is at the point where accessories and maintenance items are what's coming up (AC condenser, expansion tank, power steering pump, water pump, coils, wires, plugs...) I usually change the oil around 3K miles and have done things like PCV mod and inline thermostat. The shop used URO hoses, and I had the T fitting fail and some other issues with those parts. Swapped hoses for better ones and Carrs4x4 metal parts, and deleted the T fitting with the inline thermostat.
We're done many road trips in it. It's been loaded down, lots of stuff on the rack, bikes on the back, 4 people and dogs in it, gone from the Seattle area to Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and back seeing over 100F and around 10F in the same trip with no issue. Been up and down into BC all over the mountains there summer and winter, no issues. Just need to drive within the limits of the D2. There's a very steep freeway hill in Eastern Washington going up that in summer, I have the windows down, heat on, and in 3rd gear. I'll never be able to speed up that hill in the D2, but I get over it and keep the engine temp in check even when 90+F out.
I don't remember the cost of the swap itself. When it was done, the swap was a part of the overall build (engine, radiator, hoses, water pump, bumper, winch, lights, wheels, tires, brakes, driveshaft, locking center diff, lift, rack, wrap, stereo system, cameras...)
These days I'd look at an LS swap just for the extra hp. The Turner 4.6L is good, the D2 is never going to be fast or quick, but some extra hp would be nice.
Have done about 85K miles on the Turner, zero engine issues. My D2 is at the point where accessories and maintenance items are what's coming up (AC condenser, expansion tank, power steering pump, water pump, coils, wires, plugs...) I usually change the oil around 3K miles and have done things like PCV mod and inline thermostat. The shop used URO hoses, and I had the T fitting fail and some other issues with those parts. Swapped hoses for better ones and Carrs4x4 metal parts, and deleted the T fitting with the inline thermostat.
We're done many road trips in it. It's been loaded down, lots of stuff on the rack, bikes on the back, 4 people and dogs in it, gone from the Seattle area to Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and back seeing over 100F and around 10F in the same trip with no issue. Been up and down into BC all over the mountains there summer and winter, no issues. Just need to drive within the limits of the D2. There's a very steep freeway hill in Eastern Washington going up that in summer, I have the windows down, heat on, and in 3rd gear. I'll never be able to speed up that hill in the D2, but I get over it and keep the engine temp in check even when 90+F out.
I don't remember the cost of the swap itself. When it was done, the swap was a part of the overall build (engine, radiator, hoses, water pump, bumper, winch, lights, wheels, tires, brakes, driveshaft, locking center diff, lift, rack, wrap, stereo system, cameras...)
These days I'd look at an LS swap just for the extra hp. The Turner 4.6L is good, the D2 is never going to be fast or quick, but some extra hp would be nice.
Did the Atlantic British long block in my '00 Disco.. All new belts, hoses, replaced anything that was needed. Had it done by an independent shop (old family friend, Dad runs the shop, 2 sons extra mechanics, wife is the office manager. The shop specializes in MG and British Leyland products, being well known nationwide for their work. No problems with the engine. Truck has 308K miles on it and runs great.
We did have a problem with the front cover and being misaligned, causing an oil leak. Had to get with the engine remanufacturer for AB to send a special tool to align the cover. Something that Land Rover was aware of but never fixed.
All good now and very pleased.!
We did have a problem with the front cover and being misaligned, causing an oil leak. Had to get with the engine remanufacturer for AB to send a special tool to align the cover. Something that Land Rover was aware of but never fixed.
All good now and very pleased.!
Did the Atlantic British long block in my '00 Disco.. All new belts, hoses, replaced anything that was needed. Had it done by an independent shop (old family friend, Dad runs the shop, 2 sons extra mechanics, wife is the office manager. The shop specializes in MG and British Leyland products, being well known nationwide for their work. No problems with the engine. Truck has 308K miles on it and runs great.
We did have a problem with the front cover and being misaligned, causing an oil leak. Had to get with the engine remanufacturer for AB to send a special tool to align the cover. Something that Land Rover was aware of but never fixed.
All good now and very pleased.!
We did have a problem with the front cover and being misaligned, causing an oil leak. Had to get with the engine remanufacturer for AB to send a special tool to align the cover. Something that Land Rover was aware of but never fixed.
All good now and very pleased.!
AB is what I’ve landed on due to the recommendations on here and by my mechanic, as well as cost. Putting the order in this week or next. Pretty pumped to drive the disco without worrying so much about the engine. Fingers crossed it all works out! Thanks again
Do the inline thermostat while you're doing the work. Has worked great for my new engine and also follow the oil change intervals recommended by AB. I use synthetic in mine, change every 5000 miles.
I can’t comment on what AB recommends but TWS recommends not using synthetic oil during the breakin period. You want some friction to help the rings seat and the cam lobes to harden. After 1k miles or so it’s probably fine to use what ever you want.
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