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Removal of the Exhaust Manifold?

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  #11  
Old 07-10-2013, 09:11 AM
Paul Grant's Avatar
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I've seen that trick employed on a few of the junkers I take in for parts here at my shop.

Another favorite I've seen even more of is where people use one or more small vise grips to keep the manifold and down pipe together after breaking the studs.

I can't say how well either of these tricks worked because I saw them on Discovery's that were given/sold to me for scrap.
 
  #12  
Old 07-10-2013, 01:16 PM
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Very nice with the clamp . Best one I saw was someone welded a wrench between the two pipes to hold them together then smothered it with that exhaust bondo stuff. Needless to say it leaked like crazy and required a lot of work to fix.
 
  #13  
Old 07-11-2013, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Grant
I found it always best to use an impact wrench for removing the nuts from the studs on manifolds. That way you lessen the build up of torque on those studs.

If you don't have an acetylene torch to heat around the remains of the studs you may find it nearly impossible to remove them.

Should you find yourself in a bind with freeing up the studs keep in mind I sell a pair of manifolds, glass beaded, ready for high temp paint with clean studs and chased threads for just $89.99 a pair plus shipping.

Land Range Rover Pair of Exhaust Manifolds 3 9L 4 0L 4 2L 1990 2004 | eBay

I'm not trying to capitalize on your misfortune but you could be facing a lot of work removing six broken studs from those manifolds. I've removed hundreds of broken studs and, like I said above, unless you have an acetylene torch and are good installing helicoils, you could be setting yourself up for hours of frustration.
Cheers,
Paul
Thanks for the offer Paul. That's a great price for those manifolds. I'm a machinist by trade, so worse comes to worse I'll repair with heli-coils. Never know though. I might be talking to you next week.

Cheers
 
  #14  
Old 07-17-2013, 08:45 AM
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Clamping with vise grips or a wrench is a funny idea. Might be good for limping home, but I like doing things the "right way". I think we can agree that is not the "right way". My plan is to make this a trust worthy 4x4 that is not constantly being towed out of the woods.

BTW. What are the manifold bolt sizes? Seems pretty close to 3/8-16 UNC. Is this possible? I know the engine design was purchased from GM many years ago, but wouldn't they have changed to metric bolts?
 
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