I'd agree only I have my own lathe and wouldn't pay others to do the job. New good quality rotors are as cheap as chips. (TRW are v. good)

 

Good idea. The whole time beating it loose I was glad I was not on the side of the road somewhere trying to change a flat.

 

I really meant "I wouldn't turn/skim them because it's a waste of time as well as money".

Skimming the discs thins them out and thinner discs can absorb less heat, which in turn increases the risk of brake fade or warping. If they were skimmed because they were warped in the first place then the underlying physical/metalurgical fault is still there but is now even more likely to reoccur.

 

I'd agree with the first part about heat sink and potential fade but would challenge the latter part inasmuch as usually once a casting has heated sufficiently and stress relieved and been machined flat unless there is an inherent metallurgical defect it rarely warps or distorts a second time. Hence often the cast iron or steel exhaust manifolds from new distort and often tear the studs out of the alloy heads but after machining they usually remain flat whereas fitting a new replacement manifold often has the repeat distortion experienced on the previous original manifold. With mine I opted to machine the existing manifold for exactly that reason and has been, as far as I can tell, remains near perfect.

 

Rotors were always cut that is why they list a minum thickness. But as labor rates got higher and the influx of cheap parts. It just got cheaper faster to replace them.

 

When I replace brake pads I usually clock up and spin the rotors in the lathe to clean off the high spots and the lip on the outer periphery formed by the old pads. It makes bedding in the new pads far quicker.

 

Better man than me. New Pads. New Rotors.
I do it for the noise aspect as well. I have noticed the product range I work on, the rotors tend to groove quite easily. That with the formation of a lip and when they are blue, new pads, new rotors.