I’m installing a replacement 4.6L in an ‘03 Disco 2 and need advice on initial start-up and break in. I’m using a Turner long block that wasn’t cheap, so I don’t want to screw it up!!

Would appreciate any insights or references to previous threads if they are out there.

Attached is a souvenir from the blown engine. Bought the truck with the bad engine so have no idea what caused such a massive failure. Block had a 2” hole blown through it!!



Souvenir from the blown engine!

 

I use a pressure pot hooked up to the oil cooler line to prime the engine. maybe you could use the oil pressure fitting on an 04

driven 10w40 break in oil

 

How many miles break-in before your first oil change?

 

you're going to get lots of different answers. you should ask Turner

I do a couple hundred then change it to regular oil. Some poeple say you need to change it immediately after cam break in.

It will be full of glitter I try to use the longer oil filter when breaking in a new engine (drawing a blank wix 5555?)

 

On my Turner I did a cam break in with lube on cam, then 25-50 mile easy drive with long pulls on highway. Drain and fill with regular 10w40 with zinc additive. Drove 500 miles, easy driving. Lastly, drain and fill with Rotella 5w40 synthetic for 5000 mile change intervals. Have 25k miles on my Turner now. Uses zero oil and has zero leaks.

Almost exactly this...
https://www.maperformance.com/pages/engine-break-in-procedure

 

I ran straight dino oil when I broke my cams in with a zinc additive and then per crower specs ran at 1500 rpm? for 30 min and then changed oil and ran 15w-40 rotella t6 with the larger WIX filter 1515 or 5151 (I don't remember which but it's an alternating 1 and 5 number and there's only one).

 

WIX 51515 and Rotella 15w40...

5w oil? Surly that must be a typo.

 

Nope. 5w40 synthetic. Still a 40 weight at full temp. Easier on startup. New motor, no leaks. No reason to run a heavier weight.

 

You can get break in oil that has all the dinosaurs and additives you need. Amsoil makes a good one. Alternatively some rotella with half a bottle of zinc additive for the cam break in works well.

That is the most critical part. The first 20-30 minutes will decide the fate of the motor. Make sure the oil system is primed first thing. I like the idea of using a system to force pressurized oil through the motor. I've always pulled the ignition relay and cranked it till I got pressure, but that is not optimal.

When you start it, bring it straight up to 2500 rpm or so. Begin oscillating between 2000 and 3000 rpm for 30 minutes. 20 should be fine, but I like to go the extra 10 to be sure. Cam manufacturer will have more specific recommendations.

You may get some clatter for a few seconds on first start up because the lifters are not pumped up yet, this is normal.

Something non-critical like an exhaust leak, ignore it. Continue the break in.

*If* you have to stop after you've started, cut the ignition while still above 2000 rpm. Check whatever you need to check. This is only if something major is happening like overheating, major misfire, massive spewing oil leak. It helps to have someone with you who knows what they're doing to keep an eye on the engine bay at least the first few minutes.

Upon restart, same deal. Straight up to 2500 rpm. Try not to take too long before restart. The longer you take, the more oil drips off the cam.

Once that's done, change the oil. Like has been said, turner will have their own break in recommendations for the first 500 or so miles. Opinions are like a**holes even amongst engine builders. Some say drive it easy, others say break it in how you intend to drive it. I personally fall into the latter category and in my experience *most* engine builders do, but not all. Turner's motor, Turner's warranty, I'd follow Turner's recommendations.

 

Thanks so much for the input; great feedback. Will be following Turner protocols and using the advice everyone provided when appropriate.

Must say, the thought of “glitter” in my oil freaks me out a little…