That will be the fasted garage mechanic ever or the fastest machine shop ever

 

Oh, glad you brought that up. It seems that the consensus is that machining the heads should always be done. Has anyone had any luck with not machining the heads? I know that it's a risky decision to not. My thoughts were to check the heads using this method: ED'S GARAGE BLOG: How To Test Cylinder Heads For Warpage . I was planning on machining if out of tolerance. I only consider not doing this since the leak is external and isn't overheating. Again, I know it's a gamble, but let me know your thoughts.

 

it is a gamble mostly with time not so much with money. if you don't mind gambling with 10-hours of your time, try it.
I will admit i did not machine my heads, I used cheap AB gaskets and STY bolts, still running a 190 t-stat and i have just under 50K miles on the head gaskets.
but i would not recommend doing it that way unless your willing to lose big.

i would suggest you machine your heads and use ARP studs.

what i have since done is got spare set of heads for $25.00 and had them skimmed for the next round.

 

I did not machine my heads either.
Went 11k and sold the truck.

Figured - the gasket just wore out from thermal expansion and contraction from a bad radiator and tstat.

Replaced radiator, tstat fan clutch.
Never a worry after all that replaced.

 

Just because ur leak is outside the heads it would still be a good idea to take them to a machine shop and have them at least check for warpage. Also they will put new valve seats in, new valve springs and clean it up. I would do it since u are that far into the motor

 

Ok, we got the HG job done last weekend. It took a FULL Friday and Saturday. We were surprised how many of the bolts were only hand tight (if that). The valve cover bolts under the intake were totally loose. Even the exhaust manifold bolts came out without any straining. It's not wonder this thing was leaking everything. We took the heads off, cleaned them spotless and tested with a straight edge and feeler gauges. There wasn't any sign of warping so we put it all back together using Elring gaskets along with ARP studs, a new water pump, and 180 degree stat (all from lucky8). The two things that took the longest were scraping the old water pump gasket off (it laughed at gasket remover) and getting those coil bolts back in place. Everything else torqued to spec nicely. We used a vacuum filler to test the coolant system for leaks, then fill it with Peak Global 50/50 and Water Wetter. All looks dry for now.

I did find a loose vacuum type hose on the drivers sided firewall that didn't connect to anything. I'm hoping it's just a vent of some type since it doesn't produce any vacuum.

 

prolly a vent hose.
diff. vent?

 

that's what I we were thinking

 

i have seen that thing. just never traced it back.

 

I have that same vent hose. It hasn't done me any harm.

Also I chose not to machine the heads. Failed instantly.

Nothing like doing a job twice