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Right Rear ABS Sensor Failure; Questions about replacing

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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 06:51 PM
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Default Right Rear ABS Sensor Failure; Questions about replacing

Hi Guys.

First I want to thank Joe for diagnosing my 3 amigos problem for me while I was there picking up the skinny roof rails.

Per his really nice scanner, Joe determined that I have a sensor problem on the right rear wheel.

read the RAV, it said to replace the entire hub, obviously don't need to do that (yet).

Found 2 different types of sensors.

Basically, the same sensor, but one has a very long cable and an unterminated pigtail that presumably one has to route all the way up to the ECU/SLABS.

The other type has a much short cable with a cylinder-style connector. BTW, this is the same connector/sensor they show for a new hub assembly.

Can anyone shed some light on which one I should use? Obviously, the short one with the connector eliminates the need to route 10+ feet cabling thru the chassis, but on Atlantic British their front sensor replacement video they say that it is best to route the sensor all the way back to the ECU/SLABS in order to avoid any problems with the intermediate connector.

Any thoughts, input, advice, experience, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2015 | 07:13 PM
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The long cable is a newer design made for the front sensors only.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 06:15 AM
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you can get after market hubs for less than $100 with a new sensors on ebay, depending on you mileage you could need a hub.
Mine came in as a weak signal only to find the hub was junk
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 05:33 PM
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Thanks to that lead on the hubs.

Looks like they're around $150 new on eBay.

I am going to try replacing the sensor first.

Just crawled under the car -- it's 100 plus right now here in austin -- and discovered that the bad sensor (rear passenger) appears to have been replaced once already with a "long" cable sensor with a pigtail (i.e., no connector).

Whoever did the work didn't even bother to to take a moment to remove the old sensor at the connector; instead they just cut it off and left the long wire run to the SLABS in-place I guess.

I also guess this means that they rewired the new connector-less sensor directly at the SLABS with the long cable pigtail.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

My idea is to try and reuse the long cable in-place and hopefully be able to use the "orphan" connector to splice it all together.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 05:45 PM
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Just thinking about this some more and have a follow-on question.

Given that whoever replaced the sensor the first time just cut it off, if they left the original wiring in-place at the SLABS as well while wiring in the new cable, could it be possible that the little wire stub they left on the sensor side of the connector is fraying and perhaps shorting and causing my problem?

Easiest way to check will be to remove the stub from the connector, cover up the open end of the connector and see what happens, right?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 06:05 PM
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=371139844114&globalID=EB AY-US

Here's a set of two for $148, looks like the cheapest option. A steal and always nice
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 07:15 AM
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Thanks.

That is a good deal.

Will I need to take the hub-shaft to a machine shop to press them out (and in) or can this be done at home with a vise and wood dowel or something similar?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 07:20 AM
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To figure out which of my two long sensor runs is "hot", I guess I am going to have to pull the BCU in order to get a look at the ECU/SLABS and see which sensor cable is connected to the sensor pinout connector?

Any thoughts here?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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you can press the hub right off the half shafts while they are in the truck.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
you can press the hub right off the half shafts while they are in the truck.
Yep, this is how I did it. You'll want to use a bunch of PB blaster, you'll need a hell of a breaker bar to get the axle nut off (I used a long one with a cheater bar on the end that was as long as the breaker bar). Then you'll need the big 3 leg puller from O'Reilly or advance or something. The actual hub puller won't work, or atleast the one I got wouldn't.
 
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