You're correct, Frank is no rookie, and I don't like to bicker.

The problem comes back to length. The longer the wire, the more electrical resistance, and I've melted 12 ga from the battery to the roof. As I've said, I'm sure there are lights that are fine. Obviously Frank's Hella 700s are fine as long as they're split up. I'm just worried about someone less experienced who runs across this thread and decides this is proof enough that the factory wiring can hold up to the $10 amazon specials with halogen bulbs that suck quite a bit of juice.

I'm not saying it can't be done, I'm just saying someone with some real electrical knowledge should be approached.

I am going to apologize, I could have handled this whole situation better from my side. I appreciate you stepping in with real facts to straighten everyone (including myself) out.

 

The switch is timed for 5 minutes. Each of my lights draws 4.6 amps so that is 9.2 amp draw from each side.

 

Cool guys great input
The only problem I have with running the lights on there own is having an ugly switch to operate them
Now if you have any suggestion on that we would be in business
Nevertheless thank you all

 

You can always run the heated windshield button as the switch for the relay if you don't want an aftermarket button.

There's also a nice little space on the dash down next to your keys that I used a black flush mount button with a green light from amazon, $15 I believe, and ran that to the relay.

 

I snagged a cruise control switch from the junkyard to use for my LED lightbar. Hooked it up using a relay - works great and the dash looks just as it should.

 

This would be a good choice if it wasn't so pricey ($70 for a light switch!!!)

Discovery Auxiliary Driving Fog Lamp Switch

One sold on eBay for $40 in April. They're probably scarce as hens' teeth but maybe one of the dismantlers has one.