Rotella dyno oil ok in winter?
#11
01-02-2012, 11:13 PM
Mudding
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Not saying it won't work but not ideal for those kind of conditions. I strongly recommend using an oil with a better base oil viscosity. They make the Rotella 10W-30 for a reason. Oil temp at 40 C is considered to be a cold start but -30 F!?
Last edited by SolbergFanBoi; 01-02-2012 at 11:16 PM.
#12
01-03-2012, 05:14 AM
Super Moderator
There are few things (other than additives) that forum members are more concerned about than what oil to use under which conditions. It is the least expensive service item for the engine in many cases. Better to change early and often than try for extended drain interval, etc. If you don't like the 5W40, change it next week. It is not like you are putting on a new serpantine belt and water pump. It is just an oil change.
On the other hand, if an oil change is beyond what an owner can DIY (due to time limits, space to work, mechanical inclination, SWMBO task order list, etc.), Rover ownership will be high priced compared to lesser vehicles. But if you maintain by open checkbook, please check the RAVE for shop practices, etc. That stands for Rovers A'int Very Economical.
On the other hand, if an oil change is beyond what an owner can DIY (due to time limits, space to work, mechanical inclination, SWMBO task order list, etc.), Rover ownership will be high priced compared to lesser vehicles. But if you maintain by open checkbook, please check the RAVE for shop practices, etc. That stands for Rovers A'int Very Economical.
#13
01-03-2012, 02:37 PM
Not to flame here but that information is just plain false... The 5W or the first number of the xW-xx is the weight of the base oil or viscosity of the oil when it's cold. A 5W will have superior cold start properties than ANY 10W, 15W base oil and will only benefit your engine in the long run. 50% of wear occurs at start up and using anything else besides the lowest number base oil possible is just starving your engine for oil. Also, the larger number between the two viscosities (5-40, 5-50, 0-40) is an indication of the quality of the oil you are using as opposed to (10-30, 15-40, 20-50) . To say a 5W-40 is too thin is also saying a 15-40, 10-40 is too thin, they both have the same operating temp viscosity. I mean Mobil 1 0W-40 actually has a thicker viscosity index rating than almost any other 40W oil on the market while retaining great cold start performance being a 0W base oil. Any oil will come out like water when hot no matter the viscosity... Dino or synthetic.
OP, a synthetic not only has better additive packages than dino's but will always have better start up performance just due to the lack of contaminants (waxes mainly). I would use the T6 5W-40, Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 or Delo Syn 5W-40 for year round use and are highly recommended being heavy duty engine oils with robust ad packs. There are also other passenger car motor oils that will perform admirably like the M1 0W-40, Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40, Kendall Liquid Ti 5W-40 and a host of others. If you can't justify the price difference, go for a conventional the 10W-30 Rotella like I suggested earlier in the winter/fall or a 10-40 (Pennzoil yellow bottle recently has had a formulation change and is a VERY stout oil) if you want to keep that operating viscosity a 40W.
Usually these are based on engine type but probably similar to what yo would see in some owner's manuals. Personally, I would NEVER use a 10W oil if temps were below 20*F. 5W or less would be optimum.
OP, a synthetic not only has better additive packages than dino's but will always have better start up performance just due to the lack of contaminants (waxes mainly). I would use the T6 5W-40, Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 or Delo Syn 5W-40 for year round use and are highly recommended being heavy duty engine oils with robust ad packs. There are also other passenger car motor oils that will perform admirably like the M1 0W-40, Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40, Kendall Liquid Ti 5W-40 and a host of others. If you can't justify the price difference, go for a conventional the 10W-30 Rotella like I suggested earlier in the winter/fall or a 10-40 (Pennzoil yellow bottle recently has had a formulation change and is a VERY stout oil) if you want to keep that operating viscosity a 40W.
Usually these are based on engine type but probably similar to what yo would see in some owner's manuals. Personally, I would NEVER use a 10W oil if temps were below 20*F. 5W or less would be optimum.
Yes, I understand oil weights and what each number stands for and that is why in my post I indicated I drained the oil "hot" with the t6 rotella and I also drained the 15w40 hot, so I had an comparable arrangement of data. Based purely on observed subjective data there is a huge, drastic difference in the observed viscosity of 5w-40 and 15w-40 when drain hot. I understand they both have the same hot end rating but, it did not jive with real world experience.
#14
01-03-2012, 06:05 PM
Pro Wrench
#15
01-04-2012, 08:58 AM
Recovery Vehicle
I just changed from 15-40 rotella to 5-40 syn rotella on january 1st... today it was 16 degrees F out and theres a high of 27... all the minor ticks/rattles have completely gone away. im very happy with the switch, and dont plan on going back to 15-40 until april/may depending on the temps in the mornings.
read over bob the oil guys sight and youll be pretty convinced that you want free flowing grades for first starts, especially when its cold out when already using 40 weight rating at operating temp.
read over bob the oil guys sight and youll be pretty convinced that you want free flowing grades for first starts, especially when its cold out when already using 40 weight rating at operating temp.
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