A friend built a motor for a customer with a Crower cam and was using Mobil 1.

He ended up having to go back into the motor like 5k mikes in for a leak at the cam plug and something else, but he found crazy wear on the cam. He called Crower and they said he needed more zinc. He went back to stock cam as he didn't want to deal with it again.

 

I only used the zinc additive at break in. After that first 500 mi changed to Rotella 15-40 alone.
Curious if the thicker oil is covering a reduction in oil pump performance on the ticking vehicles. I have a pathfinder that does that very thing.

 

Would love for someone to test their oil pressure in this scenario. With thin and thick oik

 

I'm planning on changing my oil this weekend for the 2nd time since I've had my Disco, and have been reading a ton about what to put in. Then I remembered that the first time I changed it at British Auto Works in the Bronx, the tech (I believe his name was John) looked me dead in the eyes and said the only oil that goes in this truck is 10w40. He was very serious for some reason, like it would ruin the whole world. Anyway, scared me straight. I think i'll go with the Castrol 10w40 and add a ZDDP additive...

 

Too much zddp will adversely effect the additive pack and actually reduce wear resistance. And there's no direct corelation between zddp and oil effectiveness, not in contemporary formulas anyway. Yes, even for solid flat tappets.

Also, too much Zddp will kill your cats.

Ive been using mobil 1 0w40 euro spec, for what it's worth.

 

Got it, I was hoping it might help with my slight ticking at warm idle...

 

Why not just go with the Rotella 15w40 conventional? Very reputable shops out here in the PNW are using 20w50 with no ill effects. They add the zddp pack to that, no need with the Rotella. And the Rotella is easily available at any Wal Mart for $12.99/gallon. The detergent additive made for diesel engines does a great job in removing gunk buildup from ill informed previous owners.

 

That's not too thick for the impending northeast winter, where we can expect it to drop below 0ºF for potentially weeks at a time?

 

20w50 is probably too thick for the NE, I haven't had any issues with the Rotella 15w40 in below freezing conditions that I am aware of. I assume in that climate you have a block heater and that would help too.

 

Most synthetics have plenty of detergents, rotella isn't alone in this. Also, too much detergent makes rubber seals turn to jelly. That's how most "high mileage" oils work. They are packed with detergents which make the seals swell to stop leaking temporarily, and then turn to mush.

Honestly, the average mechanic has no idea how oil works. Seriously, go to a high end import shop, even a decent engine builder, and ask him some oil questions and you'll probably get a sales pitch or a DC two step answer.