Here is some info I pulled from the RAVE on the cruise control.

1) Cruise control layout.pdf
2) How to use cruise control.pdf

 

I was having trouble speeding up with my cruise and I found that my cruise cable had come unclipped where it connects by the actuator.


(To enlarge image: right click the image below, click "open link in new tab", then click anywhere on the picture to zoom in)

 

Jared I have never successfully done a smoke test. I'm afraid to admit that I really don't understand what it is. With the fan running I have tried every smoke maker I can find from cigars to Pam spray oil and never successfully found a vac leak (I found them by listening or moving stuff around). Can you give me some pointers?

If all else fails I can remove the upper intake. I got pretty good at it in multiple previous iterations, and the only reason I resist is that one of my long upper intake bolt heads has gotten very iffy (slightly rounded).

 

I'm guessing that the air whooshing sound is not something anyone else hears...

 

I really need to replace my cruise controller. Where it is supposed to saddle the bracket mine is in two pieces and I zip tied them back together, somewhat successfully. When I did that, the engine was the priority and, like so many other things, it sort of worked so I tackled the next major problem. Next time ky_scrap has one available on ebay I'll get it working. I sometimes forget to mention that my Disco sat in the garage for six years with a cracked engine and when I replaced the engine it was my first car repair beyond a belt replacement--i had no idea what I was doing and wasn't as careful as I should have been.

I will look at those RAVE sections and see if I can fix it. Thank you!

 

I think I remember helping you out on your rebuild thread. If I remember correctly you had problems with the wiring harness after swapping engines and have to install another to fix your problem.

I had to replace my pump also and I think I too bought mine on ebay from Ky_scrap. It worked like a charm and is still working to this day. My cruise did not engage at all though. If yours still works somewhat then I would pull the pump off and check the 3 rubber hoses on the vacuum pump to make sure they are not cracked or split. If all else fails to fix your problem then buy the used pump.

 

You have a good memory and you were a tremendous help. The wiring harness did the trick. I did replace the fuel rail and injector o rings as queried in the previous page.

I'm in my second year with a 30 dollar air conditioner compressor and 30 dollar power steering pump, among other items, from KY_scrap, and they work flawlessly. He is great!

Thinking about the issue here, a really do wonder whether the plenum gasket is the issue. I definitely hear a whoosh at the intake and if I had to guess I would say the sound is coming from the foremost driver side air tube. I had trouble getting the new plenum gasket over the guide holes. It was an OEM gasket but I had to use a small socket to push the gasket over those guides and I wonder if it didn't pop off and then get crimped when I put the upper intake back on. Only one way to find out, and if you remember my rebuild threads then you know that it will be done quick and I'll let you know what I find. If it wasn't midnight here I'd do it right now.

What is really odd is that it has run fine for months since I did all of that work. I don't know what changed to cause the current problem. But I'll figure it out (with help!).

 

I remember you were taking the upper intake on and off sometimes 2-3 times a day trying to figure out the misfire problem, and it was down to a 15 min job by the end. We'll see how rusty you've become.

I think the "tubes" you are talking about are the hoses that run to the IACV (idle air control valve). 1 hose runs from the intake tube to the IACV and the other goes from the IACV to the upper intake manifold.
The valve opens slightly to control the idle, and air is forced through a small opening and that may be the air sound you hear on the drivers side. You can take that valve out and clean it with MAF cleaner or something. The little valve in there should move easy when you move it from side to side (at least that's what mine does, I hope it's normal). Be sure to blow it out with air good before installing.
If you had a leak at either one of those 2 hoses then it would most likely effect both banks and you would be getting 1171 & 1173. Your leak more then likely has something to do specifically with the bank 2 side of the engine.

The plenum gasket I install had the same issues going over the guide pegs. I can understand how it may have been damaged during install also. I'll be curious to see if you find anything when you remove the intake.

I would do the smoke test before you take anything apart though.

 

Jared, by tube I am referring to the metal intake tube that carries air and is on the top of the upper intake, closest to the throttle body. When I was putting my hands all over the hot upper intake trying to isolate the location of the whooshing sound, that tube or passage seems to be where is it coming from. I cupped my hand over each one and it was the only one making that noise. Of course it is also closest to the front of the upper intake so if there was a whoosh coming from the front of the upper intake that is where it would be loudest. I am sure this isn't the case, but to describe it sounded like there was something partially blocking the air passing through it. The sound was not coming from the throttle body.

Is there any harm in removing the fan for a short time to see if I can hear it better and do a real smoke test?

 

You can remove the fan fine with no problems. Just make sure you don't let the truck run for more than a few minutes at a time. Let it cool back down if it starts showing hot on the ultragauge.

If you suspect a certain area has a leak you can try and spray some starting fluid in the area and see if the engine reacts. You can spray a lot but don't over do it.