Hi
A new member here, so please be kind!
I have tried to search for an answer, but nothing seems to be what I’m experiencing.

Please bear with me. I will try to be a concise as I can be!

I bought the D2 in August. It was already off road prepared and ran OK considering the mods it had. The three amigos were on, but I’d done a lot of research and was OK with that. I thought I’d be able to sort those out over the winter.

Off roading on day and the car wouldn’t move. Put the CDL on and got home OK. Replaced from t diff and both CV joints (one was in bots, so that was the problem). Whilst off the road being repaired I did the shuttle valve mod, added a D1 hi/lo/CDL lever and all the brakes (new handbrake cable and shoes, front and rear disks, calipers, carriers and pads).

The car drove now so I was happy. I’d replaced the wheel sensors but not wired them into the SLABS yet. Once I’d wired them in (the sensors are the long wired ones directly into the cabin and I’ve used the supplied connectors directly into the yellow plug), I cleared the codes (Nanocam) and the three amigos disappeared. Brilliant? NO! Ran like a pig.

It was almost as if it was going to stall. I could keep it running, but it was awful. Like a brake was on. So, I checked the brakes and they seemed OK. The rears were a little sticky so I put the old pads in and wound the handbrake off in case that was binding. Removed the hi/lo/CDL lever. No change.

I thought back to what I’d done since it last ran OK. I’d plugged the yellow plug into the SLABS unit. So I removed that and it ran OK, albeit with the three amigos back.

I tried another SLABS unit - no change. Still ran roughly with plug in and OK with it out. It also runs OK with the plug in if the three amigos are showing. As soon as I clear them it reverts to bad running.

So I bought a brand new genuine WABCO shuttle valve and replaced that today. Same issues - runs OK with the=reee amigos but badly when they are cleared.

I’m running out of ideas now. I’m thinking of swapping the yellow plug and soldering the new wires to the old bits of wire left on the plug - any thoughts?

Can anyone offer any advice?

Thanks
Roger

 

I forgot to mention, no other codes showing.

Also, sometimes, when running roughly with none of the three amigos showing, it flashes up with just the TC light.

Not sure if this has any bearing on what my problem might be.

Roger

 

SLABS and CDL have nothing to do with how the engine runs. It sounds like you may have fuel and/or vacuum issues, rather than brake or transmission issues.

 

So if I understand correctly you have done a test where you unplug the slabs and it runs fine, plug it in and does not. Test is repeatable. Plugged in it shows no codes, unplugged it shows codes. Is this correct?

When you say it does not run well, does it idle in park and drive ok? When you say it does not run well, does it just lack power or does it run rough and stumble?

 

Basically, yes, although it can run OK with the yellow plug in.
I have recently noticed that the bad running is only when the three amigos are NOT there. As soon as they show (whether the plug is in or not) it runs OK.

Maybe I need to be a bit clearer on the running. I say runs rough, but it actually feels like a sticking brake or something. That’s why I would the handbrake back and put the old rear pads back on.

On the drive it revs great and starts fine, ticks over etc. As soon as I try to drive it feels like it’s pulling back and could stall.

Does that make sense? Sorry for the confusion!

Roger

 

Yes, sorry, I think I may be misleading you here. When I say runs roughly it actually feels like a sticking brake.
That’s why I would the handbrake back and put the old rear pads back in.
It ticks over and revs fine when stationary, but as soon as I set off (when the 3 amigos are on), it feels like it’s pulling back and could stall.

Almost as if the handbrake is on - but it certainly isn’t.

To add to what I’ve done since noticing the issue - I checked the red and black plug on the ECU - cleaned and all OK now. Replaced the fuel pump with a new one. Replaced the fuel filter. I have got a new injector loom and seals, but I don’t think this is my problem really. I’ll do those once I’ve sorted this present issue out!

Roger

 

It sounds like you are correct that it's a problem with the braking system, and has nothing to do with how the engine is running. If something is making a brake or the brakes stick do not drive it like that. Just unplug the connector from the modulator and drive without ABS until you get the cause of the braking problem sorted out. Don't drive it as-is.

 

Thanks for the reply.
I’m not driving it like this - the car is running fine with the plug out so that’s how it is until I’ve solved this issue. I don’t use the car much anyway - it’s more of a play thing!
Doing some more searching today and it seems that it could be either unmatched wheel hubs (the new one I bought might have a different amount of teeth than the existing one) or wheel sensors not set correctly. Either of those could make the TC kick in and that’s what the ‘brake binding’ feeling is.
That sounds pretty plausible to be honest so that where I’m looking next.
Roger

 

Sounds like something is up with the ABS unit. Would probably be good to actuate all the valves. You would probably need a nanocom or some other ABS unit friendly scanner with bidirectional controls. LR specific service shop might have something or forum member in your area might have something.

 

Ok, so now that terminology has started to be used more accurately, it does seem like a brake issue. "Running rough" usually means that the engine is not running smoothly. It seems like you're talking more about it driving roughly.
What replacement hub did you use?