Routine Maintenance and Engine Job
Several questions:
1. How often should you change the air filter?
2. How often should you change the front and rear diff. and transfer case fluids?
3. Other than the oil/filter and lubing the drive shaft u-joints and slip shafts and stuff in #1 and #2 above is there any other routine maintenance that needs to be done?
4. I believe my head gasket is starting to go, I have 161k miles on the truck and no records of a head gasket job from a previous owner. I have a lot of bubbling under the radio. Never had the temperature gauge go above horizontal. I am loosing coolant and my mechanic sees a coolant leak at the back corner. I'm wondering about an estimate of time for my mechanic on how long this will take. He's also noticed a fair oil leak down the front - he's thinking it would be easier to pull the engine and work on the oil leak and heads at the same time with the engine out.
I'm looking at http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK.cfm and http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9224.cfm in terms of parts. Is that it?
I've also heard that:
-He should add Water Wetter? Which I assume is this: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
-I should replace the thermostat at the same time? Which I assume is this: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PEM100990.cfm
-I should have a complete flush done including the heater core and a switch to OAT Dexcool (orange)
Also, is there anything else that should be done at the same time? Any tips? Special instructions or info?
5. I believe the only two items I have left on DiscoMike's 60k service list is Induction Cleaning and Engine Flush - I'm guessing I should wait until I get the engine job (head gasket/oil leak in #4) done first?
6. Are there any special areas to 'target' when undercoating? I'm planning on getting the truck undercoated next fall with Krown undercoating after a steam/pressure wash and overnight dry.
Comments? Advice? Thanks!! And Merry Christmas everyone!
1. How often should you change the air filter?
2. How often should you change the front and rear diff. and transfer case fluids?
3. Other than the oil/filter and lubing the drive shaft u-joints and slip shafts and stuff in #1 and #2 above is there any other routine maintenance that needs to be done?
4. I believe my head gasket is starting to go, I have 161k miles on the truck and no records of a head gasket job from a previous owner. I have a lot of bubbling under the radio. Never had the temperature gauge go above horizontal. I am loosing coolant and my mechanic sees a coolant leak at the back corner. I'm wondering about an estimate of time for my mechanic on how long this will take. He's also noticed a fair oil leak down the front - he's thinking it would be easier to pull the engine and work on the oil leak and heads at the same time with the engine out.
I'm looking at http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK.cfm and http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9224.cfm in terms of parts. Is that it?
I've also heard that:
-He should add Water Wetter? Which I assume is this: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
-I should replace the thermostat at the same time? Which I assume is this: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PEM100990.cfm
-I should have a complete flush done including the heater core and a switch to OAT Dexcool (orange)
Also, is there anything else that should be done at the same time? Any tips? Special instructions or info?
5. I believe the only two items I have left on DiscoMike's 60k service list is Induction Cleaning and Engine Flush - I'm guessing I should wait until I get the engine job (head gasket/oil leak in #4) done first?
6. Are there any special areas to 'target' when undercoating? I'm planning on getting the truck undercoated next fall with Krown undercoating after a steam/pressure wash and overnight dry.
Comments? Advice? Thanks!! And Merry Christmas everyone!
if you need head gaskets i wouldnt do an engine flush or induction cleaning.
your parts are correctly linked.
you should ahve your mechanic pressure test to see where its leaking from.
the bubbling is air in the heater core you need to bleed the cooalnt system properly.
it shoudl take a mechanic abour 8-10 hours. costing no more than $1200.
your parts are correctly linked.
you should ahve your mechanic pressure test to see where its leaking from.
the bubbling is air in the heater core you need to bleed the cooalnt system properly.
it shoudl take a mechanic abour 8-10 hours. costing no more than $1200.
x2 on this one! Except i've got a D1, can someone add the service intervals to the newly added tech guide for D1s?
Information from call from DiscoMike
Engine Job:
-Contact will Tillery at willtillery@roverguy.com to get a kit of the majority of the parts needed. His parts are superior and better priced than the alternatives, including Atlantic British. Ensure he includes: gasket set, head bolt set, t/stat. His kits are typically USD$195 shipped within US
-Use Peak (I assume: http://www.peakantifreeze.com/antifr...lifetime.shtml) or another high quality yellow or green coolant and change it every two years
-Add Water Wetter (http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10), or if unavailable Purple Ice (http://www.royalpurple.com/radiator-additive.html). Add one of these when the coolant is put back in after the engine job
-Print out relevant sections from RAVE to provide mechanic (including sections on removing and reinstalling the head)
-Ensure head bolt thread lubricant is used
-Timing chain cover...I forget why he mentioned this
-Before doing work use the aerosol Gunk degreaser (I assume: http://www.gunk.com/item_details.asp) and power scrub first (Disco II engines are great wet)
-Drain oil
-Leave old oil filter on
-Add 6 quarts of ATF fluid in crank case
-Idle for 30 minutes (clears out engine)
-While mechanic's in there: check rocker arms and shaft and push rods for wear and measurements to get rid of ticking
-Don't pull engine but will need to take the hood off
-Complete engine flush before tearing engine down
-11.5 hrs. in the flat rate book
-Do NOT use Dexcool
-call DiscoMike for induction cleaning walk-thru once above engine job done
Routine Maintenance, etc.:
-The ideal year round tire for offroad, highway, city, and real winters: Goodyear DuraTrac (http://www.goodyear.ca/goodyeartires...ea=Light+Truck)
-Change the air filter every 25,000 to 30,000 miles if using a factory air filter. Change it twice as often if on dirt roads often. It can be cleaned somewhat between changes to extend life. If using an aftermarket air filter under normal use change every 15,000 miles due to lesser quality compared to factory air filter
-The fluid change intervals in the manual for an older truck should be modified as such. If it states 30,000 miles do every 20,000 miles, if it states 15,000 miles do every 10,000 miles.
-Use Valvoline Automatic Transmission Fluid (I assume: http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/37)
-Use 75/140 oil for diffs and transfer case
-Use DOT 4 syntehtic brake fluid. If colour is anything other than clear (light brown, etc.) bleed them. This could be once a year and must be done as old/bad fluid is very bad for the ABS control system which is very expensive to replace
-Replace the power steering every 15,000 miles with Lucas (http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show). I assume this is done simply by syphoning out the existing fluid as best as possible and added a couple bottles of the above Lucas product
-Rather than undercoating, pressure wash underneath several times through the winter
Engine Job:
-Contact will Tillery at willtillery@roverguy.com to get a kit of the majority of the parts needed. His parts are superior and better priced than the alternatives, including Atlantic British. Ensure he includes: gasket set, head bolt set, t/stat. His kits are typically USD$195 shipped within US
-Use Peak (I assume: http://www.peakantifreeze.com/antifr...lifetime.shtml) or another high quality yellow or green coolant and change it every two years
-Add Water Wetter (http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10), or if unavailable Purple Ice (http://www.royalpurple.com/radiator-additive.html). Add one of these when the coolant is put back in after the engine job
-Print out relevant sections from RAVE to provide mechanic (including sections on removing and reinstalling the head)
-Ensure head bolt thread lubricant is used
-Timing chain cover...I forget why he mentioned this
-Before doing work use the aerosol Gunk degreaser (I assume: http://www.gunk.com/item_details.asp) and power scrub first (Disco II engines are great wet)
-Drain oil
-Leave old oil filter on
-Add 6 quarts of ATF fluid in crank case
-Idle for 30 minutes (clears out engine)
-While mechanic's in there: check rocker arms and shaft and push rods for wear and measurements to get rid of ticking
-Don't pull engine but will need to take the hood off
-Complete engine flush before tearing engine down
-11.5 hrs. in the flat rate book
-Do NOT use Dexcool
-call DiscoMike for induction cleaning walk-thru once above engine job done
Routine Maintenance, etc.:
-The ideal year round tire for offroad, highway, city, and real winters: Goodyear DuraTrac (http://www.goodyear.ca/goodyeartires...ea=Light+Truck)
-Change the air filter every 25,000 to 30,000 miles if using a factory air filter. Change it twice as often if on dirt roads often. It can be cleaned somewhat between changes to extend life. If using an aftermarket air filter under normal use change every 15,000 miles due to lesser quality compared to factory air filter
-The fluid change intervals in the manual for an older truck should be modified as such. If it states 30,000 miles do every 20,000 miles, if it states 15,000 miles do every 10,000 miles.
-Use Valvoline Automatic Transmission Fluid (I assume: http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ssion-fluid/37)
-Use 75/140 oil for diffs and transfer case
-Use DOT 4 syntehtic brake fluid. If colour is anything other than clear (light brown, etc.) bleed them. This could be once a year and must be done as old/bad fluid is very bad for the ABS control system which is very expensive to replace
-Replace the power steering every 15,000 miles with Lucas (http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=9&loc=show). I assume this is done simply by syphoning out the existing fluid as best as possible and added a couple bottles of the above Lucas product
-Rather than undercoating, pressure wash underneath several times through the winter
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