Rovertym springs
#1
Rovertym springs
Looking for advice on the rte 3 inch springs and fox shocks...anyone run them? I'm starting to build up my newest d2 and thinking about going with this setup on this disco. My other disco has the terrafirma 3 inch on it and the only issue I have is the in town ride, I've heard the rte springs absorb impact a lot better. The other thing I've heard is that the rte springs are really closer to a 4 inch spring, any truth to that?
#2
Looking for advice on the rte 3 inch springs and fox shocks...anyone run them? I'm starting to build up my newest d2 and thinking about going with this setup on this disco. My other disco has the terrafirma 3 inch on it and the only issue I have is the in town ride, I've heard the rte springs absorb impact a lot better. The other thing I've heard is that the rte springs are really closer to a 4 inch spring, any truth to that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twjones
Found a set a almost brand new rovertym springs on CL...will these work on a D II even if they are for a D I?
Any insight is appreciated!
Yes they would. 3 inch lift on a D1, Defender 90 and Range Rover Classic will be a 3 inch lift. On a D2 it will be a 4 inch lift because of the front lower spring mount, you would also need a 1 inch spacer in the rear to level it out. All Land Rover springs are the same diameter which makes them inter change. You would have progressive springs in the front and standard springs in the rear
#3
I have them in a D1, but they will surely work in the D2 as described above. I would expect the main difference compared to Terrafirma is the RTE springs are softer (but progressive on front as mentioned) and longer, which is better for offroad travel and articulation.
The ride on my D1 is quite harsh, but this is not because of the springs. The RTE springs are plush. But I set my shocks up with a lot of compression damping. Driving offroad, you want soft springs so you can flex, but you need a lot of compression damping in the shocks to prevent bottoming out when you hit a big bump with any speed. If you tried to use heavy springs to prevent bottoming out, then it wouldn't flex over obstacles.
If you only drive offroad at very low trail speeds and you drive primarily on the pavement, then you can setup the shocks with less compression damping and more rebound. That will make the ride soft and plush.
If you get the Fox shocks, you can set the shim stacks on the valves for the damping you want. If you buy them from Poly Performance or whatever (RTE is just going to buy them from somewhere like that and mark them up for you), they'll come off the shelf with soft damping. Put them on, drive through some whoops and you'll see they don't control the car at all. Shimming them enough to get some control in whoops is pretty extreme and you'll find the ride is harsh. So you'll have to shim them the way you like.
If you're going to spend the money, and the time (significant if you're valving them) on Fox shocks, you should definitely get raised shock mounts and longer shocks.
TF and RTE offer mounts off the shelf. The main problem with the rear mounts is they put the shocks at an even greater side angle than stock. They have to in order to keep them under the floorpan. But being at an angle, they become digressive, which is the opposite of what we really want. It forces you to set compression damping too high at ride height so it will be just high enough near the bottom of the stroke, or to go to a stiffer or more progressive spring which will interfere with flex. But what can you do? The only other solutions are to punch them through the floor pan (eliminating the rear seats), or go with some kind of bypass shock that's really expensive and doesn't fit in the space anyway.
The front mounts are good, but TF and RTE could have made them 6" taller if you'd be willing to ditch the charcoal cannister and the stock airbox. You should consider doing that with some custom mounts, and also consider going to coilovers in the front. For what you do to pay for expensive RTE springs, taller shock mounts, and the Fox shocks, you could weld a loop of DOM on the frame and mount up a coilover just as easily and for about the same price. It's something to think about.
The ride on my D1 is quite harsh, but this is not because of the springs. The RTE springs are plush. But I set my shocks up with a lot of compression damping. Driving offroad, you want soft springs so you can flex, but you need a lot of compression damping in the shocks to prevent bottoming out when you hit a big bump with any speed. If you tried to use heavy springs to prevent bottoming out, then it wouldn't flex over obstacles.
If you only drive offroad at very low trail speeds and you drive primarily on the pavement, then you can setup the shocks with less compression damping and more rebound. That will make the ride soft and plush.
If you get the Fox shocks, you can set the shim stacks on the valves for the damping you want. If you buy them from Poly Performance or whatever (RTE is just going to buy them from somewhere like that and mark them up for you), they'll come off the shelf with soft damping. Put them on, drive through some whoops and you'll see they don't control the car at all. Shimming them enough to get some control in whoops is pretty extreme and you'll find the ride is harsh. So you'll have to shim them the way you like.
If you're going to spend the money, and the time (significant if you're valving them) on Fox shocks, you should definitely get raised shock mounts and longer shocks.
TF and RTE offer mounts off the shelf. The main problem with the rear mounts is they put the shocks at an even greater side angle than stock. They have to in order to keep them under the floorpan. But being at an angle, they become digressive, which is the opposite of what we really want. It forces you to set compression damping too high at ride height so it will be just high enough near the bottom of the stroke, or to go to a stiffer or more progressive spring which will interfere with flex. But what can you do? The only other solutions are to punch them through the floor pan (eliminating the rear seats), or go with some kind of bypass shock that's really expensive and doesn't fit in the space anyway.
The front mounts are good, but TF and RTE could have made them 6" taller if you'd be willing to ditch the charcoal cannister and the stock airbox. You should consider doing that with some custom mounts, and also consider going to coilovers in the front. For what you do to pay for expensive RTE springs, taller shock mounts, and the Fox shocks, you could weld a loop of DOM on the frame and mount up a coilover just as easily and for about the same price. It's something to think about.
Last edited by binvanna; 03-24-2016 at 01:08 AM.
The following users liked this post:
shady milkman (03-24-2016)
#4
The following users liked this post:
shady milkman (03-24-2016)
#5
Looking for advice on the rte 3 inch springs and fox shocks...anyone run them? I'm starting to build up my newest d2 and thinking about going with this setup on this disco. My other disco has the terrafirma 3 inch on it and the only issue I have is the in town ride, I've heard the rte springs absorb impact a lot better. The other thing I've heard is that the rte springs are really closer to a 4 inch spring, any truth to that?
Last edited by Yoops Racing; 03-24-2016 at 12:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
shady milkman (03-24-2016)
#7
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