Rust in the cylinder
Discovery II, 115,000... I blew my head gasket out last year or so, (after a couple of overheats...)
I garaged it until i had time to deal with it...
I opened it up yesterday... One side looked good... clearly the gasket was shot, no steam cleaned cylinders...
As I was taking out spark plus on the other side, it was def rusty (prob not good)... as i got it off i founds this heap of **** in there...
Im assuming this block is a wash at this point.... is it worth macgyvering something... or should i just get a new block/ or part the truck out...
Also if i go the block route can i use the same crank, pistons (sans the 2 shot ones) and internal hardware (sans bolts) from the old block if they check out... what would i need to buy new.....
Thanks for any help






I garaged it until i had time to deal with it...
I opened it up yesterday... One side looked good... clearly the gasket was shot, no steam cleaned cylinders...
As I was taking out spark plus on the other side, it was def rusty (prob not good)... as i got it off i founds this heap of **** in there...
Im assuming this block is a wash at this point.... is it worth macgyvering something... or should i just get a new block/ or part the truck out...
Also if i go the block route can i use the same crank, pistons (sans the 2 shot ones) and internal hardware (sans bolts) from the old block if they check out... what would i need to buy new.....
Thanks for any help






Last edited by lyndon b johnson; Aug 4, 2013 at 04:33 PM.
I'm no expert, but looking at that gasket, I don't see where it failed in a way that would allow coolant to pass into the cylinder.
Which makes me think you cracked a sleeve.
I suspect that cylinder was steam cleaned when you parked it, which would provide a oil free environment for rust to grow.
Were you still using dextron? I wonder if it could partly be dextron sludge.
Which makes me think you cracked a sleeve.
I suspect that cylinder was steam cleaned when you parked it, which would provide a oil free environment for rust to grow.
Were you still using dextron? I wonder if it could partly be dextron sludge.
I'm no expert, but looking at that gasket, I don't see where it failed in a way that would allow coolant to pass into the cylinder.
Which makes me think you cracked a sleeve.
I suspect that cylinder was steam cleaned when you parked it, which would provide a oil free environment for rust to grow.
Were you still using dextron? I wonder if it could partly be dextron sludge.
Which makes me think you cracked a sleeve.
I suspect that cylinder was steam cleaned when you parked it, which would provide a oil free environment for rust to grow.
Were you still using dextron? I wonder if it could partly be dextron sludge.
It was def some type of build up as it was not a hard mass of rust...
If you look at the pictures you can see that it has a layer of black carbon under the rust on both cylinders...
Not saying that they weren't or aren't slipped, cracked or shot... but there was a little black under the rust..
I bet it's dexcool sludge. Dexcool turns to goop when exposed to air. Which begs the question of how clogged your radiator is.
It looks to me like the sludged cylinder and the one next to it are a lot cleaner than the other 6.
Cheapest route is a used engine. I'd probly replace the head gaskets while it's apart.
Another option is to pull the block and have a machine shop check it. You can pin the sleeves while it's out (or replace with top hat sleeves if you want to go big), and you should get the heads checked (probly necessary after the overheats). This route will cost a bit more but you'll have new engine afterward. The question is what all to replace and what to reuse to minimize costs.
It looks to me like the sludged cylinder and the one next to it are a lot cleaner than the other 6.
Cheapest route is a used engine. I'd probly replace the head gaskets while it's apart.
Another option is to pull the block and have a machine shop check it. You can pin the sleeves while it's out (or replace with top hat sleeves if you want to go big), and you should get the heads checked (probly necessary after the overheats). This route will cost a bit more but you'll have new engine afterward. The question is what all to replace and what to reuse to minimize costs.
I bet it's dexcool sludge. Dexcool turns to goop when exposed to air. Which begs the question of how clogged your radiator is.
It looks to me like the sludged cylinder and the one next to it are a lot cleaner than the other 6.
Cheapest route is a used engine. I'd probly replace the head gaskets while it's apart.
Another option is to pull the block and have a machine shop check it. You can pin the sleeves while it's out (or replace with top hat sleeves if you want to go big), and you should get the heads checked (probly necessary after the overheats). This route will cost a bit more but you'll have new engine afterward. The question is what all to replace and what to reuse to minimize costs.
It looks to me like the sludged cylinder and the one next to it are a lot cleaner than the other 6.
Cheapest route is a used engine. I'd probly replace the head gaskets while it's apart.
Another option is to pull the block and have a machine shop check it. You can pin the sleeves while it's out (or replace with top hat sleeves if you want to go big), and you should get the heads checked (probly necessary after the overheats). This route will cost a bit more but you'll have new engine afterward. The question is what all to replace and what to reuse to minimize costs.
You think a complete engine? or a used block (that i can pin, and test for cracks) and swap the parts over from this engine...
The sleeves are obliviously pitted from the rust on mine, so even if the block is good, i would have to get them bored/honed/ re sleeved?
I just think you can dig up an engine more easily. If you're planning to take the new block to a machine shop anyway, I'd just take the block you already have.
About the sleeves, I really don't know. I'm sure it depends on how deep the pitting is. The machinist will tell you what is needed.
About the sleeves, I really don't know. I'm sure it depends on how deep the pitting is. The machinist will tell you what is needed.
I don't know what to do... guys in the other forum are saying hone it.. pressure test.. then check the spec... There saying there's a good probability its not shot...
While ill agree there isn't much lost in honing it and testing it (besides a **** load of time)... ill prob pin those 2 sleeves "if" the block checks out....
And if the blocks is shot, get a used one.. hone that, pin all the sleeves and see what i can reuse from this motor....
.
While ill agree there isn't much lost in honing it and testing it (besides a **** load of time)... ill prob pin those 2 sleeves "if" the block checks out....
And if the blocks is shot, get a used one.. hone that, pin all the sleeves and see what i can reuse from this motor....
.
Last edited by lyndon b johnson; Aug 7, 2013 at 01:14 PM.


