I've replaced
- brake lines
- calipers
- pads
- rotors
- abs hard line to front left + rear
- wheels

All in one go.

Left front wheel gets super hot after driving, all others are cool. No pulling left or right when driving. Car pulls left under hard breaking at freeway speeds only.

I've bled, bled, and bled some more. With bleeder cracked, and brakes pumping, a nice arch of brake fluid gets released so I don't think it's the hose or air in system.

Pulled front wheels, and front left caliper. Put a block a wood in it and pumped brakes, only 1 piston would move, and neither retracted. Used a c-clamp to pull the pistons back in... one moved easily, the other took some effort. Put calipers back in, car in the air, had a friend tap brakes while I tried to turn wheel. Front left is very hard to move with brake released, front right works as expected.

Seized caliper, right?

If so, I've driven for about 1,000 miles on it. Brake rotor looks pretty polished / dark grey color. Do I need to replace pads and rotor along with the caliper, too?

 

Replace the caliper...you got a bad one.

Did a brake job on my buddies Tahoe a few weeks ago, Advance Auto (not picking on them...they are all the same anymore) dropped off the calipers and other hardwear. One caliper was wrong, boxed wrong...sent it back. They sent down another, right one this time. Bled everything out, test drove...new caliper leaked like the Exon Valdez. Nice. I'd have blown a gasket, if I were doing this job on a customers vehicle.

So, the moral of the story...this is just the way things go anymore.

Brian.

 

Yeah, thanks. I figured. Hopefully I can return this one to Rock auto.

It's a Lucas too... bummer to see brand new parts not work.

 

Are you sure that was a new and not a rebuilt caliper? And no worries, Rockauto expects to get this crap returned.

I have a simple rule with a rebuilt part/ Unless I'm doing the rebuild, I'm NOT wasting my money or time. Problem with most rebuilt parts (especially brake calipers) is you are at the mercy of the core that is most likely in $hit shape to begin with. I'll bet you if you remove a piston you will see that it's been sandblasted (rust pits) and NOT replace with a new one. I've seen it too many times in the past (yes, I had to learn the hard way). Well, enough of my rant.

Grab a NEW caliper STC1915 from L8 > LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 II RANGE ROVER P38 BRAKE CALIPER FRONT LH STC1915 NEW | eBay

OR RovahFarm > RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories
OR wherever you choose. But for about $100 end your pain. And if it were me, I'd replace the rotor and pads...they probably got cooked. Good Luck!

 

It's a remanufacture. More Information for CENTRIC 14222014

$35 is hard to beat, and the replacement is covered under warranty.

I'll keep that in mind next time... it has all brand new hardware including piston, except for the actual caliper. Or so it says.

 

Oof, I'd stay away from Centric for calipers. Their rotors are ok for a budget replacement.

Try BeckArnley when you can. 90% of the time, they're just re-boxing an OEM part. The other 10%, it's a good quality part.

Also, did you replace the caliper bracket when you replaced the caliper? It could be that the slide pins are seized, which would cause the same dragging issues as a seized caliper.

 

They came with brackets. I checked, and they were lubed and moving freely.

Ordered a new raybestos rotor and replacement caliper. That should sort me out.

 

It's not a Lucas. It's a Centric caliper that just used a Lucas casting, extremely common with reman parts.