Apologies for the gender mistake. -not a sexist thing, a simple math error. Women who do their own repairs are few and far between. Kudos to you for keeping your Disco going this long! The message is the same tho, at this age, things aren't going to get easier or cheaper. If you decide to dig in and keep going, we're here to help as you can see. Offering parts and help for free means that you are part of a great group! If you decide to pull the plug, no shame. Try to come up with a list of issues that you know of, and list it here. It's worth more to us than anyone else. If no takers, list it on craigslist as parts or repair. Hopefully someone will at least use it for parts.

As for your brake problem, it may only need new seals between the plastic reservoir and the master cylinder underneath. There's a cheap kit with a new reservoir (can't stop saying reservoir) and seals available. Another reason you need a better mechanic; The guys at Pepboys just don't know the problems that these trucks have, or the best way to fix them. They're not trained for it, nor do they care to help get you out of a jam as painless as possible. They also have liability if they don't fix brakes properly, so they would rather replace everything than just what's needed.

 

 

 

I agree with what Brian has written, that it may be time to sell the truck and move on for this owner, but I think he should get the power steering hose fixed first. If he tries to sell it with the power steering hose leaking that badly he won't be able to get nearly as good a price as he would if it were repaired.

 

 

The brake booster(black round part in pictures above) may be close to corroded to the point to where once it's rusts through, then you have no power brakes...you still have brakes, you'll just have to push them really hard, as there will be no power assist. Also if the rubber seal in it is dry rotted. Either way and it won't hold the vacuum to assist the brakes(there is no fluid in there).
Enough spilled brake fluid from the master cylinder(the part that bolts on to the front of the booster with 2 bolts)will eat the paint on the booster and cause it to start rusting.
If the master cylinder itself is bad, and leaking fluid, then you have air in the brake lines, and that needs to be fixed immediately, with a new mc, and bleed the brakes.
The master cylinder should be ok though, since the truck just passed a state inspection.
Either part is an easy fix.
You can replace the booster without removing any brake lines from the mc too, just gently pull the mc forward after removing both bolts.
There is a pin/clip that goes through the top of the brake pedal as well, also easy to remove.
I put a new mc on my D2 last year, and it only took a few minutes.
The mc itself also only takes a few minutes to swap, the only real time is bleeding the brakes.

 

does anyone know if there is any way that a pep boys mechanic could tell if the brake booster itself is about to go, or if he was actually referring to the obviously corroded master cylinder?
as has been said, the master cylinder is extremely simple to replace in a few minutes. the brakes do have to be bled afterwards.


if the decision is really whether or not to keep the vehicle, i would be looking more broadly than just the current brake and steering problems. if it looks like it's likely to have other big issues arise fairly soon then i would unload the truck. things aren't going to get cheaper or easier to fix. however, if all there is to repair is the brake cylinder and maybe a split steering hose, those could be taken care of relatively cheaply and the owner could keep the truck for herself. for a while. because something else WILL fail in a year or two at most.

 

Based on the photos, there is no corrosion on the booster itself. I have never seen a booster even close to rusted through, so even if there is some corrosion I cannot see I doubt if it is close to rusting through. If the power brakes still work, the booster is not bad. Boosters do fail, but you cannot see the failure visually even if you take the unit off (possible if you cut it open, but I have never tried). The leak at the master cylinder is a leak between the reservoir and the master cylinder itself, the rear port seal deteriorates from the use of DOT 3 fluid instead of the recommended DOT 4 and eventually starts leaking. It does not require complete removal of the master cylinder to replace (ie disconnection of the brake lines and the associated brake bleeding), but it is easier to do on the bench. It does require disconnection of the master cylinder from the booster to install the new seal, but no need to remove the brake lines. The seal can be ordered as part of a rebuild kit, I have ordered and replaced several as they all do it. However, as someone else pointed out, if you merely top up the fluid regularly you will not lose brakes. There is a level indicator that will turn on the red brake light in the instrument panel if it is low. Be sure to fill it as soon as that happens or you will introduce air in to the system if it gets too low. As the seal continues to deteriorate you will spend a fair amount on fluid however.

Much easier fix in my opinion than the power steering leak. 95% probability your PS pump is leaking, however at your leak rate it might also be a bad hose and that is easier to fix. The problem with the power steering pump replacement is LR put a mounting stud in the head to mount the power steering bracket on, so you have to remove the AC compressor, idler pulley, radiator fan, and compressor bracket to get the pump off. I always pull that damn stud out and throw it away as it was one of three bolts holding the pump in and is superfluous in my opinion. If the pump had been changed once before or the HG done it may be gone already, it is the top bolt holding the pump on and can be seen without disassembly if it is still there. The rave manual and some internet photos will help immensely understanding the removal and replacement of the pump. The pumps do wear out and at your mileage likely needs replacing.

To the original poster, you need to find a specialty LR shop with a good reputation and take the truck ONLY there. Any other shop will give you bad advice as these things are different from most of what the average shops work on. However, you may want to consider DIY if there is not one close by. Overall one of the great things about these Disco's is they are relatively easy to DIY. So much good information on the internet, so many videos, and so many people on the forums willing to help. It can be intimidating if you have never done it, but if you can work up the courage to make the effort I guarantee you can do it with the help from the forums. Buying the tools is cheaper than the shop labor is all cases. Most repairs can be done in a parking lot or a garage, worst case you rent a storage locker big enough to put the Disco in and get out of the weather, even if it is just for a week. If it is your only vehicle, buy all the tools and parts recommended by the forum post ahead of time and save the job for a long weekend. Don't forget Enterprise rental cars are cheap also if you need a couple days to do the job. At $30ish a day you can rent several days before you have spent even one hour of a shops time. We will get you through it, I for one am actually willing to facetime a newbie through a job is they really need help.

Good luck, and let us know if we can help.