SES woes
Got my parts in yesterday and went to work today fixing the leaking throttle body heater and flushing the coolant on my girlfriend's D2 before I had to head to work. While doing so, I also went ahead and replaced the brittle hard plastic lines from the overflow tank to the radiator and from the overflow tank to the TB, as well as thoroughly cleaning the TB (very conservative when cleaning the mouth to the intake...did not empty an entire can...used CRC TB cleaner, as I do on all my vehicles). I also noticed a large rip in the hose from the throttle body to the pcv/oil separator on the valve cover...I replaced this with some 1/2" heater hose.
Upon wrapping everything up, I fired the LR up to finish filling the coolant. It revved to about 3 grand for 30 sec or so...nothing out of the ordinary when there is TB cleaner in the intake...it then returned to a normal idle. I let it get to operating temp, topped off the coolant, and shut it down. I cleaned up my tools, and then got in to take it for a spin and make sure I had all the air bled out of the coolant. It started right up, and on came the service engine soon light. The truck ran fine, no heating issues, no stutters.
I know this is going to be difficult with no codes (I will scan it this morning after work), but does anyone have any thoughts off the top of their head? The only 2 sensors I was remotely close to were what I assume to be the throttle position and intake air temp sensors....didn't even unplug the MAF to do the job.
On quick inspection after returning home from my short drive, the only thing I noticed as being a little off was my newly installed pcv-to-TB hose...it was slightly kinked, due to not being the formed hose you would get if you actually ordered the part. I cannot imagine this doing anything other than forcing more oil out the leaking valve covers, but maybe there is something I don't know.
Any help is appreciated, and I will report back with the trouble codes this morning. Thanks in advance.
Upon wrapping everything up, I fired the LR up to finish filling the coolant. It revved to about 3 grand for 30 sec or so...nothing out of the ordinary when there is TB cleaner in the intake...it then returned to a normal idle. I let it get to operating temp, topped off the coolant, and shut it down. I cleaned up my tools, and then got in to take it for a spin and make sure I had all the air bled out of the coolant. It started right up, and on came the service engine soon light. The truck ran fine, no heating issues, no stutters.
I know this is going to be difficult with no codes (I will scan it this morning after work), but does anyone have any thoughts off the top of their head? The only 2 sensors I was remotely close to were what I assume to be the throttle position and intake air temp sensors....didn't even unplug the MAF to do the job.
On quick inspection after returning home from my short drive, the only thing I noticed as being a little off was my newly installed pcv-to-TB hose...it was slightly kinked, due to not being the formed hose you would get if you actually ordered the part. I cannot imagine this doing anything other than forcing more oil out the leaking valve covers, but maybe there is something I don't know.
Any help is appreciated, and I will report back with the trouble codes this morning. Thanks in advance.
And the codes are in:
#1 P0101 -- mass or volume air flow A circuit range
#2 P0505 -- idle air control system
Cleared the codes, shut the car off and started several times after while running errands...SES light never returned. Thoughts?
#1 P0101 -- mass or volume air flow A circuit range
#2 P0505 -- idle air control system
Cleared the codes, shut the car off and started several times after while running errands...SES light never returned. Thoughts?
I figured that was the case, although I've never had that happen on another vehicle. SES light has stayed in hiding since cleared.
Go get the dam codes read, this is not rocket science.
As for your u-joint that you are waiting to install, have you rebuilt a double cardon drive shaft before and did you also buy a centering ball?
As for your u-joint that you are waiting to install, have you rebuilt a double cardon drive shaft before and did you also buy a centering ball?
I will join that forum and pm him. Maybe he will be helpful. The problem is obviously some where between the MAF and the idle control solenoid, and considering how I never removed the MAF, I'm guessing it's closer to the TB. I of course had no issues before cleaning the TB. And yes, I have removed multiple TBs and cleaned them and never had any troubles.
Regarding the drive shaft, no, I have never rebuilt a double cardon joint, but I am armed with a centering ball and the ability to read, so I'll likely survive.
If the truck is running fine otherwise I highly doubt it is a MAF issue, did you plug everything back in after working on it?
I always forget to reattach a small vacuum line and my truck idles fast until I do.
So maybe double check your work?
I always forget to reattach a small vacuum line and my truck idles fast until I do.
So maybe double check your work?


