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OP, is your rig lifted? I have had luck with cheapy ebay D-shaft on 4" lift.....but I'm sure it won't last 100,000.....My best D-shaft was heavy duty older TW shaft. If I need a new shaft, I would probably go with this because of the internal components: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rn...004_heavy_duty
OP, is your rig lifted? I have had luck with cheapy ebay D-shaft on 4" lift.....but I'm sure it won't last 100,000.....My best D-shaft was heavy duty older TW shaft. If I need a new shaft, I would probably go with this because of the internal components: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rn...004_heavy_duty
I have a 2" lift on it and, to your point, was also wondering if this is a "bite the bullet" type situation where I should get a TW or other HD type shaft.
Probably not your issue, but you said the day it happened was cold and snowy. Snow caked in the wheels will definitely give a vibration due to imbalance.
Probably not your issue, but you said the day it happened was cold and snowy. Snow caked in the wheels will definitely give a vibration due to imbalance.
It's been an issue long since the snow has cleared. I kind of knew since the start it probably wasn't the issue, but you never know so I put it in the original post. I grew up in Wisconsin so I'm used to clearing the snow from my wheels and wheel wells!
I just had a similar situation. In my case it was the left front brake caliper not retracting. Up to 45mph, there was no problem at all, beyond that, the steering would shake like crazy. You can easily check this by feeling if one front rotor is hotter than the other. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Upon closer inspection of the front drive shaft I found one of the bearings on a U-joint in really bad shape. It's the front one in the double cardan joint, I'm glad I caught it when I did. Now I'm just thinking about what to do with it- do I take it to a shop and only get the one replaced? The other ones look good and the shaft is easy enough to take out (I bought the thin wall impact extension, highly recommended).
So I decided I’m going to have a go at doing this myself, this is, after all one of the reasons I have the D2. I watched the u joint video from the “Chris Fix” YouTube channel and it looked pretty straightforward, even more so since I have access to a 12 ton press at work. I was able to remove the questionable u joint and found that the bearing was completely dry, rusted and not a needle bearing to be found (see attached pic). What’s odd about this is that this is the bearing that had the zerk fitting for greasing. All the other bearings look fine. Anyway, my replacement joint just arrived at NAPA so here’s hoping it goes in just as easily as it came out.