Shock input needed?
#1
Shock input needed?
Hey guys, i'm in the market for some new shocks. The truck as it sits is on the OME 2in kit. I'm looking at the Fox 2.0 kit that's made for the Disco, will that kit allow full droop? Have any of you guys run that kit? Would I be better off getting some new shock mounts and running something longer? I don't want to go much higher, but I want to get all of the travel out of the suspension set up.
I know it's a lot of questions, I have a tendency to make impulse buys haha. I just want to do it right the first time.
I know it's a lot of questions, I have a tendency to make impulse buys haha. I just want to do it right the first time.
#2
Hey guys, i'm in the market for some new shocks. The truck as it sits is on the OME 2in kit. I'm looking at the Fox 2.0 kit that's made for the Disco, will that kit allow full droop? Have any of you guys run that kit? Would I be better off getting some new shock mounts and running something longer? I don't want to go much higher, but I want to get all of the travel out of the suspension set up.
I know it's a lot of questions, I have a tendency to make impulse buys haha. I just want to do it right the first time.
I know it's a lot of questions, I have a tendency to make impulse buys haha. I just want to do it right the first time.
I don't like the TF shocks, BTW.
IIRC the Fox 2.0's are standard length.
You might hit up Alex_M, because IIRC he shortened his shock towers in a very clever way to use normal shocks with a lift. Otherwise you might want to ask the people at Lucky 8 or D&D Fabrications (they are always willing to answer questions), if you can't get a definitive answer here.
#5
#6
Personally, I'd convert to eye-eye. Definitely superior to the stock applications, and lets you run so many different options. A D2 is pretty easy to convert, as is a D1. I've done it to both to run 1/2" top and bottom.
You'll be hindered by the watts linkage, sway bars, and then finally radius arms as far as articulation goes.
You'll be hindered by the watts linkage, sway bars, and then finally radius arms as far as articulation goes.
#7
If you're on a budget and have a buddy with a welder (or one of your own) then cutting and lowering the front towers and making lower mounts out of square stock to weld onto the rears is a viable option. Works perfectly for me. That's what I did and if I recall you can find pictures somewhere in the link in my signature.
If you have the coin to spend, however, fox is the way to go. it's a sweet setup that you will definitely be happy with from what I've heard.
If you have the coin to spend, however, fox is the way to go. it's a sweet setup that you will definitely be happy with from what I've heard.