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Should I buy this 99'? Had a mechanic check it out

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  #51  
Old 05-05-2016, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
'04 in Portland was a dud. I guess "perfect mechanical condition" means needing new head gaskets, valve cover leaks, timing cover leak, multiple other leaks... the list was long. He estimated $3k~ to get her fixed up. Pass. Now I'm $500 deep, still without a Rover Back to craigslist... now I know to not consider anything with any sort of listed issue (the warning flag here were the sunroofs), and been on the market for a few weeks. I just don't know why an owner would waste everyones time and money when he knows a Land Rover speciality mechanic is going to look at it. Scott from PDX British (PDX British / Bend British | Land Rover Repair, Range Rover Repair, Portland Oregon) is who took a look at it - they seemed like a really solid shop. He gave me a lead on an '02 as well.
Wow that is a real bummer.
 
  #52  
Old 05-05-2016, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
'04 in Portland was a dud. I guess "perfect mechanical condition" means needing new head gaskets, valve cover leaks, timing cover leak, multiple other leaks... the list was long. He estimated $3k~ to get her fixed up. Pass. Now I'm $500 deep, still without a Rover Back to craigslist... now I know to not consider anything with any sort of listed issue (the warning flag here were the sunroofs), and been on the market for a few weeks. I just don't know why an owner would waste everyones time and money when he knows a Land Rover speciality mechanic is going to look at it. Scott from PDX British (PDX British / Bend British | Land Rover Repair, Range Rover Repair, Portland Oregon) is who took a look at it - they seemed like a really solid shop. He gave me a lead on an '02 as well.

be sure and check the classifieds here from time to time. I would buy from a forum member next time.
 
  #53  
Old 05-05-2016, 08:51 AM
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If a Rover shop gave you a lead on one, consider it. I bought mine in Portland OR too, (Their was also a lot for sale in Bend OR too), mine was a garage queen (not anymore), the prices are far better near the big city's. I was lucky enough to talk to Green Dog Rovers who was the Indy shop that did the maintenance on mine for the PO owner. The shop owner said I bought a "good" one. Made me feel better about my purchase! At the time, I wasn't totally sure which years were better, all I knew was they all had head gasket issues. After I found this site, and started doing my personal homework, I felt my early 01' without SAI was a good choice. But like ALL rovers, they have their gremlins. Doing your homework like you are is a huge plus. You will find a sweet one.
 
  #54  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead1
If a Rover shop gave you a lead on one, consider it. I bought mine in Portland OR too, (Their was also a lot for sale in Bend OR too), mine was a garage queen (not anymore), the prices are far better near the big city's. I was lucky enough to talk to Green Dog Rovers who was the Indy shop that did the maintenance on mine for the PO owner. The shop owner said I bought a "good" one. Made me feel better about my purchase! At the time, I wasn't totally sure which years were better, all I knew was they all had head gasket issues. After I found this site, and started doing my personal homework, I felt my early 01' without SAI was a good choice. But like ALL rovers, they have their gremlins. Doing your homework like you are is a huge plus. You will find a sweet one.
I'm just trying to increase my knowledge here... What caused you to focus on an early 01? No SAI I certainly understand. But I always thought you'd want an 00 or 04 for the CDL (and linkage on the 04). What are the other factors?
 
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:49 AM
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I certainly prefer the 99-02 D2's myself. CDL Transfer Case, 4.0L without SAI, real glass head lights that don't need polishing, and lower prices vs an 04.

All of my used cars I've never had a shop or mechanic look at it. LR's leaking some fluid like a rear main leak, seepy valve cover gaskets, and a seepy transfer case are considered normal. If you find a LR that doesn't leak anything I'd honestly be wondering if everything was bone dry.

It seems to me like the earlier D2's LR was trying to really sell so the quality was higher vs the 03/04's where they knew the LR3 was coming out so they just rolled em out of the factory as fast as they could so they could start the LR3 production.

My very very first LR was a 97 D1 SE. I had a 4x4 Nissan Xterra that was a complete POS. Leaked coolant that no Nissan Dealership could solve (under warranty), AC line blew out at the cost of 500.00 (later that line was recalled....), and it's 4x4 system was a complete joke... One day it wouldn't start in my garage and every single relay was tripping out. Disconnected the battery, drove to 7Eleven, to get a drink, saw an Auto Mart with a Rio Red D1 on the cover. Called on it, (at a well known Toyota Dealership in Austin), arrived to find the used car salesman going thru the manual. Took it for a test drive and scared the salesman to death by flooring it onto the freeway. Bought it without ever looking under the hood. I figured I had nothing to loose as my Xterra spent nearly it's entire life in the shop.

I had that 97 D1 for 6-8 months before I was in a very severe Roll Over accident (not the LR's fault but a 10 point buck on an S curve). I took it to the LR Dealership to grab some misc parts. They heard the cat's rattling, asked if I had 30min, I said yes, they took it around back, slapped on a new set cat's and setup an appointment for two service campaigns to be done for absolutely 0.00!!! I still to this day have never been treated as good as how LR treats anyone that drives one of their vehicles. I've been hooked ever since.

Things to Look For/Inspect:

1. Take an OBDII scanner like Scangauge and let the D2 idle and warm up, if the temps go over 205F at idle I'd pass.

2. Crawl under it and inspect rear frame area for rust.

3. Look for leaks from the usual area's.

4. Try every single thing electric windows, locks, lights, sun roofs, stereo, horn, and wipers.

5. Engage N, 4Lo, and back to 4Hi to check operation and check Ebrake at the same time.

6. Check Master Cylinder for leaking reservoir seals (not a big deal), but something to knock some $$$ off.

7. When you have the key on inspect all warning lights for proper operation.

8. On the test drive engage Sport Mode and drive it hard to see how it shifts (it's not yours yet). LR Dealership used to test for excess carbon deposits by leaving it in 1st gear and going to the rev limiter. If you look back and it looks like someone rolling coal it's been driven by a grandma and is full of carbon.

9. Inspect headliner for stains near pillar's (sunroof leaks which doesn't make me run away unless the floor is rusted thru).

10. The most important one to me = Talk to the owner. If they seem to care less about letting the LR go, or can't answer a single question then they probably have cared less on it's upkeep/care. If they seem very passionate, and sad to sell it, but happy to sell it to a fellow LR lover then you'll be fine.

Sorry for the long novel, but good luck with your LR hunting, and my brother is up in Forest Grove, OR with a 92 RRC and 06 LR3. If you find one near there let me know and I'll see if he can swing by or if he knows about it.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; 05-05-2016 at 10:02 AM.
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  #56  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:04 AM
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99-02 D2's should all have the CDL linkage (late model 02's made in 02 won't but 02 models produced in 01 and sold as 02's will).
 
  #57  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
I'm just trying to increase my knowledge here... What caused you to focus on an early 01? No SAI I certainly understand. But I always thought you'd want an 00 or 04 for the CDL (and linkage on the 04). What are the other factors?
Early 01' still have a CDL capable transfer case, and all the electrical. I think this ended in June 01'. All you need is the 04' linkage or something homemade to engage it. I'm not sure on what/where/why SAI was on some rigs and some not? I would like to know myself. I would also like to know why some rigs had air suspension with ACE? Not sure if the air/hydraulic suspension is an HE7 option? idk? I'm also a fan of the 4.0 engines. you'll see most of the negative threads on this forum are about 03' and 04' rigs. Maybe that's just because their were more built? idk. My opinion...
 
  #58  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
99-02 D2's should all have the CDL linkage (late model 02's made in 02 won't but 02 models produced in 01 and sold as 02's will).
I've never heard of an 02' CDL capable transfer case, and no D2 came with linkage other than the 04'. From the homework I've done.
 
  #59  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:18 AM
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My 02 Kalahari (build date of 11/01 has it). I also owned another 02 that was produced 1/02 and it didn't have it. From all the info I pulled up, and from the LR Master Tech's I've talked to and known. It's the build date that decides the CDL nipple being there or not.

True 02 production year and 03's were the only ones that were shipped without the CDL nipple.

Also when I said linkage I was meaning the nipple/linkage inside the TC itself not the actual linkage cable mechanism. The cable linkage was indeed strictly an 04 thing. 94-99 D1's had the mechanical setup vs a cable.

As far as SAI being on earlier 99-02 D2's those were LEV D2's which were supposed to ship primarily to CA. Of coarse dealerships moved LR's from dealership to dealership sometimes to make a sale so the earlier SAI (Low Emission Vehicle) models certainly got sold outside of CA. SAI isn't that bad of a system, but it produces more heat IMHO, leaves the engine bay cramped, and it's just another thing to fix/upkeep. I prefer non SAI myself.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; 05-05-2016 at 10:23 AM.
  #60  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:20 AM
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And if anyone reading this is wondering about having a locking CDL, it's HUGE on these rigs....especially if you put a limited slip or soft locker in the rear (some day for me). I've been on 27* rocky hill climbs that you CANNOT do without a "true" (two) wheel drive. lol The factory traction control doesn't cut it, that's why it came the CDL came back on 04's. Complaints
 


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