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Should I pull the trigger on new engine?

Old Jul 18, 2018 | 09:40 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dtmbinb
I did a Turner long block with Kent cam and gas flowed heads. I couldn't be happier. I'd also replace plugs, wires, coil packs, the whole cooling system, fan clutch, starter, motor mounts, and flex plate. Good luck!
This is exactly what I am looking to do. Thanks for the input. I wonder why some are recommending not doing this and scrapping the thing?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 09:57 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jason_B
This is exactly what I am looking to do. Thanks for the input. I wonder why some are recommending not doing this and scrapping the thing?
Money, that is a lot to spend if money is tight or there are other issues. For me 5000 US represents almost 6700 Cad, before shipping and taxes. That is pretty significant investment in a old truck.

And some people got burned bought an iffy truck and just poured money into it and gave up.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:16 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Richard Gallant
Money, that is a lot to spend if money is tight or there are other issues. For me 5000 US represents almost 6700 Cad, before shipping and taxes. That is pretty significant investment in a old truck.

And some people got burned bought an iffy truck and just poured money into it and gave up.
I 100% understand that it is significant amount of money. I just don't see a lot of great alternatives for 10-15k. I can get a 4runner or Jeep with 200k miles or another Disco with an engine that will need to be addressed soon. Or I can get a new engine for this current truck and then slowly address other issues or do preventative maintenance.

I understand this choice is not for everyone and appreciate the input.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:21 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Fastercat
Todco offers a performance 5 litre with all the goodies for our trucks for around 6500.00 I believe. Stroked, ported and flowed heads, top hat liners,cammed, arp studs, To me it’s a no brainer. As soon as I have enough cash that’s what I’m putting in mine. The advertised performance per dollar seems amazing.
I believe Turner now does a similar build. Gasflowed heads, performance cam, etc...
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:28 AM
  #15  
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I have a Turner Short Block with the Kent H180 Cams. Love it, but I would have done a long block in retrospect. The shop that installed buggered it up.

Get all of your parts cleaned, and I did some painting to make it easier to keep clean than the bare aluminum. You are going to use the Rocker Covers, Upper Intakes and Brackets. Invest in 8mm wires, Spark Plugs(NGK Iridium are what I used) and Standard Motor Coilpacks while the intake is off as well.

You could rebuild the engine yourself if you have the time, tools and knowledge. Do some porting and polishing. I liked the Fel-Pro Rocker Cover gaskets, and Upper Manifold gasket as well. The proline/britpart are cheapies.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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Getting a new motor is fine. Go for it.

There are other options if desired. You can't really rebuild your motor because you've got a cracked block and most people are leery of welding a cracked block back together, but I rebuilt my 4.6 for $2k.

If I had needed a new block then a clean block would have set me back another $200.

If I had used a racetrack shop instead of rebuilding the 4.6 myself then I would have paid out another $4k.

If I had used a Rover shop then it would have set me back another $8k.

These are all valid options based on how much effort vs money you want to expend.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:40 AM
  #17  
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+1
I just rebuilt my 4.6
I have over $2k in parts, and did all the work, with the exception of a machine shop honing cylinders, polishing the crank, and installing freeze plugs and cam bearings in the bare block, $375.
I also pinned all 8 cylinder liners.
If all goes well, I might even start it this weekend, lol.

Look at ACEngineer's recent posts.
He's putting a kit together for an LS engine swap.
Bell housing adapter, motor mounts, and wiring, and the traction control and all functions still work.
No price yet, but an LS conversion is ideal for every reason.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
+1
I just rebuilt my 4.6
I have over $2k in parts, and did all the work, with the exception of a machine shop honing cylinders, polishing the crank, and installing freeze plugs and cam bearings in the bare block, $375.
I also pinned all 8 cylinder liners.
If all goes well, I might even start it this weekend, lol.
Man, I hope so! You are going to love that new Crower cam in there!



*hope that you paid that machine shop to deck your heads, though
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 11:00 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by No Doubt
Man, I hope so! You are going to love that new Crower cam in there!



*hope that you paid that machine shop to deck your heads, though
I bought a set of remanfactured heads for it.
New valve seals, locks, springs in spec, seats ground, and surface milled.
Good to go!
The heads I took off it look really good too.

Radiator should be here today.
I got shorted one of the 2 square gaskets on the front of the upper intake too, so I've been waiting for that since last week. Then I can put the ps, ac , alt on
Then, hope it runs!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 12:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
I have a Turner Short Block with the Kent H180 Cams. Love it, but I would have done a long block in retrospect. The shop that installed buggered it up.

Get all of your parts cleaned, and I did some painting to make it easier to keep clean than the bare aluminum. You are going to use the Rocker Covers, Upper Intakes and Brackets. Invest in 8mm wires, Spark Plugs(NGK Iridium are what I used) and Standard Motor Coilpacks while the intake is off as well.

You could rebuild the engine yourself if you have the time, tools and knowledge. Do some porting and polishing. I liked the Fel-Pro Rocker Cover gaskets, and Upper Manifold gasket as well. The proline/britpart are cheapies.
Yeah, I 100% agree. Right now I am inclined to just get the most complete block from Turner that I can. They sell one with the oil pump and water pump attached. This way it is plug and play. Thanks for the advice on replacing the other components. I appreciate it.
 
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