I don't know who quoted you hose prices, but I sell them for about $60 less for the Gen kit.

 

I couldn't find the whole hose kit on your website, but I compared this one Hoses 99999 2 ? Lucky 8 Parts and Accesories for Land Rovers to AB's, and AB's is 99.95 for genuine, and like $60 or something for aftermarket. What am I missing? I got my drive shaft from you guys though and will be installing it soon - only thing is that the shaft is black and not silver like in the picture?

 

Classic bait and switch. Ha.

Black is better IMO. Wish I'd done that.

I got an amazing color changing shaft. Went from a lovely silver color to various shades of brown over about 4 months. (Not L8)

 

I can't remember you saying from your other posts, but make sure you have some way of monitoring the temps other than the dash gauge.

When it comes time to refill and bleed, you run the risk of temps rising as you work the air out of it, and you want to know what's going on.

My fave is the UltraGuage. Each to their own.

My choice would to not go all out and start attaching vacuums for your first coolant swap. You'll be pulling more coolant out of more places, leaving more air to replace which could lead to bleeding issues. I'd start softly softly. But that's just me.

 

Yes, I have the ultragauge. I really need to get ALL of that dex-cool out though, so I plan to do just about every trick mentioned here: raise rear-end, shop-vac suction, garden hose (low pressure) through a few different hoses, engine plugs, radiator plug, flush a few times, run through a few gallons of distilled to clean up, fill with distilled, start engine, cycle distilled a few times, turn off engine, let it cool, drain again, and then fill with G05. I will measure how much coolant I remove to get a good idea of results. I'll do my oil filter, oil, and tighten up those valve covers (once the 12 points arrive) first.

 

D2's don't have an official radiator plug/drain. You can remove your SAI temp sensor in the radiator below the lower radiator hose, but that's as low of a drain as you'll get on a D2 radiator. Drain, flush (with water or flush), refill. That normally will get the Dexcool out.

 

I never went at my dexcool so aggressively. I wanted it out, and with a few times of pulling the bottom hose, draining, filling with peak, running for a bit, learning the bleed technique, it was gone. No drama. For all the horror stories, Dex doesn't instantly turn to tar when mixed with green.

You could do the same in a day with a few gallons of distilled without applying low pressure to all those little spots that are hard to drain, thus making them hard to fill.

I guess I've read a lot of posts here of people pulling their hair out trying to lose the waterfall noise. Can't bleed it. Overheating after coolant swaps. Temperature spikes. As you describe yourself a new guy at this kind of thing, I would go easy, if I was you.

As I say, just me.

Good luck.

 

And you were able to get everything out of the engine block that way? From what I've read, and from the rave, you need to pull the engine plugs when flushing coolant, especially if changing coolant.

 

Like we're saying it will be fine with just a drain, flush it out with a hose (unless you have extremely hard water), then put 50/50 mix in it.

I park it level to drain/flush, then park it up as high as I can with ramps, or an angled driveway, fill will t plug out, and coolant jug up above everything else, run it with the heater on, put t plug back in when steady coolant flows out, then I let it cool down, I check the level the next morning, remove t plug, top off, and normally you should be good after that.

All modern vehicles are kinda pita's to get air bubbles out, but several hot/cold cycles normally does the trick unless you have a leaking throttle body plate, heater core, head gaskets which are allowing air into the system.

 

Of course, without a full, complete, empty block, when you fill with distilled, or 50/50 you will end up with a % of the original coolant. But when you've repeated the process 6-8 times that % is negligible. 50/25/12/6/3/1.5/0.75/0.325 If you do it 8 times and get half the coolant each time. I don't think anyone cares about 0.325% of dex remaining.

It's like homeopathy. Technically there is a tiny bit of the substance there, but nothing that is actually doing anything.

After an afternoon of drain fill run drain fill run 8 times, there won't be a hint of dex that you care about. As I say, don't think the tiniest bit turns to concrete if it stays in there.

Or stick a vacuum cleaner on it and chance yourself a world of pain.