I took out the ABS unit today to look at the shuttle valve and do the popular Option B, as long as the valve passed the electrical tests. Well, I don't think I'm going to be even doing those tests. The thing is caked in what I assume is old brake fluid, and the insulation on the valve's electrical wires is flaking off. I'm not really sure what happened here, but somehow the fluid leaked down there. Pictures attached.

Any advice on next steps? I'm thinking about ordering the Falconworks seal kit (Discovery shuttle valve seals & new style reaining clips or better ABS shuttle valve code solution; brake fluid leaks). Is it still worth doing Option B even with a new shuttle valve?

 

for what it's worth, i plan on getting the kit from Falconworks and doing option B. figure i might as well do it while i'm in there. from what i've read the seals on the shuttle valve switches go about every 90,000 miles.

the Three Amigos have been showing up about every other day. they always shut off when I shut off the truck and restart. i have a ABS 114 code according to my ABS Amigo. since i'm sitting at a little over 100,000 miles on my '04 i figure i might as well knock both things out at one time.

 

Wow.

In your other thread I said to inspect very carefully for signs of brake fluid. I guess you found signs.

And its good you're doing Option B while you have it apart. It would be a shame to install new seals and switches and still have the circuit board problem and the Three Amigos.

 

Doesn't look very bad, just some crude. Clean pins well on module as they may have been stuck/corroded in connector causing it to break. New valve due to wiring, some cleaning and may be good to go.
......

 

This is my basic plan -- just clean everything up, put in a new shuttle valve, switch to the Option B wiring and hope it's all good. I'll also do some diagnostic testing on the wiring to the ECU, as it seems that can be an issue according to this guide: Land Rover Troubleshooting - Test Procedure And Instructions for Shuttle Valve Switches

 

Reads like a good plan. Hope all goes well as it should for you.
......

 

Here is a link to Josh's write-up about replacing the shuttle valve seals.

ABS SVS Seals - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

 

Thanks, that's a great guide. Falconworks kit is on order, will update this with results.

 

Defo need new seals from Falconworks, not cheap but they are the only retail suppliers available in this world, believe me. Option B deletes all of those knacked internal wires but also fit new shuttle valves complete.

There is a partial kit from LR available but it costs big time, like $600 I believe !!!!

 

Update: I got and installed the kit from Falconworks with the seals and circlips, plus a new shuttle valve, which I've set up for the Option B mod. I'm planning to install it today.

As an fyi to people who do this in future:

1) when I pulled one of the shuttle valve inserts that you replace the seal on, it pulled out along with a large metal cylindrical piece with three purple rubber rings on it. I then had to pull the metal insert out of that piece, using some rubber to prevent damage from pliers. Everything cleaned up and went back together fine, but I hadn't seen any discussion of this potentially happening online.

2) A magnet is essential for this job, because these tiny little circlips can easily spring off when you're trying to install them. I used a strong magnet to find them a couple times. Falconworks should probably ship an extra or two, just to be safe. They can't be that expensive.

3) The torque on the bolts that secure the shuttle valve to the ABS modulator should be really low. The specs say 4nm (3lb-ft) or basically lower than any torque wrench you have probably goes. I'm considering loosening mine a bit more before putting it back in, because I'm worried I went a little tight with it. The locktite does all the work on these.