I'm putting the modulator back in now and it's going ok, except that one of the larger brake lines keeps getting cross-threaded. It looks like it's going in straight, but at some point it always tightens to the point where I don't want to torque it further because I know that cross-threaded feeling. Any tips? I've been adjusting the brake line angle, but no dice so far. Also tried blowing air in the threads on the theory there could be some dirt in there.

Edit: I've decided to sleep on this. I cleaned up the threads thoroughly on both the brake line and the modulator, and it's still sticking. It's an odd type of cross-threading, though, because it goes in smoothly for about 1.5 to 2 full turns before sticking suddenly. Should I chase the threads/retap it somehow? Looking at it visually I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary.

Edit 2: My thinking now is that I'll 1) use a chaser and see if that works, if not 2) use a tap to chase the threads, 3) torque it in and see if it'll self-tap 4) drill out the threads and use a helicoil kit to restore them, and if no dice 4) buy a used ABS unit on ebay for about $90 and replace. I could drill it out and tap wider threads, but this would be a pain in the *** because I'd have to get a new brake fitting for the new threads and would have to cut/flare/install a new line. At that point it's easier to buy a used unit.

 

Try lubing the male threads with an anti-seize or just use a little permatex. Sounds like your over thinking it. You've come up with a lot of possible out comes! Good luck.

 

Try running it in with some brake fluid on the threads for lubrication. If that doesn't work, just torque it in. Worst case scenario is that it won't go in all the way and you'll need to tap the threads.

 

I'd put some brake fluid on the threads before, but it didn't seem to change anything. I'll have another go at it today, but I'm leaning toward something being off about the threading. I may just crank it in at some point to see if it works, but that'd be pretty last-ditch.

 

This sucks. I think that before I just cranked it in I'd try one or two wraps of Teflon tape and leave it wherever it wanted to stop. The Teflon tape would be to help the seal if it's otherwise not fully seated. Forcing it seems unlikely to improve the situation and finding the correctly-sized tap or thread chaser would likely be difficult. Be careful; these are the brakes you know and I expect the hydraulic pressures to which these fittings are subjected are quite high.

 

I'd thought of trying teflon tape, but I believe that it actually needs to be cranked all the way down so that the brake flare is fully seated. If you don't crank it down, it seems the brake line is loose in the fitting, which would then leak. Correct me if I'm wrong, though.

 

Yes, that's what I was thinking, but sometimes we are forced to choose the lesser of two or more evils.

 

All Teflon tape is going to do is bind the threads more...It has zero positive effect in this situation...I think you already know this

 

I just did the Option A fix on mine (I didn't want to have to be in the position of explaining what Option B is at inspection or resale time), I used a hot knife to remove the plastic. Way better option than a steak knife, or repeatedly heating up an Exacto blade.

On the cross threading, loosen the mounting nuts on the module, and raise the electronic side of the modulator slightly. This should allow you to thread in the brake pipes properly. It took me a few minutes to figure this out myself.

Good luck.

 

The threads/nut should go in initially finger tight with no problems (it has a starting land to guide it). I always push the brake pipe down onto the seat first then engage the nut finger tight and finish tightening with a wrench. Use some engine lube oil on the nut if it's too sticky.