So I've been noticing that my temperatures are not up to par with an optimal cooling system and Im having trouble tracking the issue

I recently replaced my motorad 180 with a genuine 180 and I've also replaced my fan clutch with a hayden 2991. I saw some improvement with the new fan clutch but my temperatures are still hitting 210 on a occasion.

My highway temperatures are 194-195. Idle temps are anywhere from 199-208. It's hard to tell if there is any difference with the AC on or off.

Back in January I replaced my waterpump with an airtex brass propeller unit along with the radiator. MY heatercore is still young as I replaced that 2 years ago.

204.8 is a consistent temperature for me. Regardless of outside weather.

I have fully bled the system of air and I am not losing any coolant that I can tell anyway. No coolant drips under the engine either.

I doubt my waterpump is faulty. As the reason I replaced my old one was because I noticed my engine gradually getting warmer so I decided to replace it out of precaution. Results are basically the same.

So I know that at worst it could be premature headgasket failure, or a slipped liner. But worst case aside. Can the AC condenser fan be the issue? What about the temperature sensor?

Could my radiator really be clogged even though it's extremely fresh?

I will admit that I've never replaced the overflow cap. But the o-rings on mine are still good and are not cracked.

 

How "fresh" is the radiator? Mine is 4 years old, and I consistently run 197 degrees, at 51 mph, with a/c on, at ambient temperature 80 degrees. Stop and go traffic is different, because Land Rover engineers programmed the electric fan to come on at 215 (I think-- going from memory) and the viscous clutch to engage at 208 or 209 (again, from memory.)

Water is one of the most efficient heat transfer fluids on the planet. 50/50 is the best mix up north where I live. But if you live in the south, with little danger of freeze damage, I'd be tempted to try 60 or 65 percent water.

210 might be as low as it goes in stop and go traffic, given the viscous clutch and electric fan settings.

I've been meaning to ask: does anybody have the magic bullet part number like "Oh yeah, just use a BMW XYZ123" or a "Land Rover LRABC789 for a Freelander" to make my electric fan come at 205? I would love that.

 

My truck does the same thing. It runs around 190 when driving with ambient temps in the low 90s. If it idles, the temp starts climbing. After 10-15 minutes it breaks 200 and typically I turn it off.

The fan radiator combo is designed to use the stock thermostat, so I suspect it simply can't hold the truck at 180 degrees in hot temps.

That said, my coolant system is a few years old, so maybe it's a bit clogged.

 

In line thermostat mod!

 

My radiator is a new Nissens unit that I installed in January. I've got a new overflow tank cap on the way so we'll see if that makes any difference. I'm still not seeing any coolant anywhere and my temperatures are consistent. Where I would think if I had a leak it would be a worsening situation.

 

I did the online mod, and while temps are generally more stabile, it can't fix the whole problem.

 

Inline mod and electric fan... world of difference.

 

at 209F I think - the A/C aux fan should come on.
Put in a brand new Nissen's radiator to be completely safe.
Painful installation.
Nissens is about $250 at RockAuto.com

You need the trifecta

thermostat
fan
radiator.

You did the first two.

 

I did the radiator already. It's 6 months old.

 

Fan comes on at 212 deg