I'm thinking since the fan system was designed by the same team that decided to run an aluminium engine at 220°

The fan turning on at 212 was to compensate for choosing a high operating temperature to more completely burn excess carbons.

Once we change the high operating temp, by changing stat, the need for the aux fan lessens.

I never notice mine running anymore...

Most likely because it never gets above about 203 on a hot day any longer, stock radiator in my case.

But again the point is not to see who can run the coolest all the time, it is just to keep it below boiling in reality.

It's too early to tell but the side effect of designing a system to be running so hot could have been manifest in the performance of the selected head gasket. meaning that high temp could have been the HG weakness all along.

We'll see.

 

Sorry when I said inline thermostat and electric fan, the fan I was referring to is a replacement for the mechanical clutch fan. It has its own thermostat. Dusty1 has taken it one step further with an electric water pump but I haven't gone so far. Yet.

 

Well then you did all three and still a bit of overheat?
Is your AUX fan coming on?

Seems then the water pump will not circ correctly?

If you put a scanning OBD-II with live temperature on and see the temp..

Rising at idle and rising again.
Then you rev it up.

Fan clutch should roar the fan
Circulation should pick up.
Temp should go down after a minute at say 1,500 RPM.

If you got the A/C on
and you are slightly overheating..
Then the condenser may be throwing a lot of heat into the mix.

I think if an A/C is overcharged that the condenser may throw off more heat?

Is there a chance on an A/C overcharge?

You could also check the Air openings in the condensor.
Try to spray a hose in from the engine side where the fan is.

Hopefully you did that when you were putting in the Nissans.

Plus you need probably that foam insulation in correctly too.
And the rubber curtains on the sides.