Not loosing coolant, it is getting hot fast, I have an ultra gauge which showed 236 before I shut it off and needle started to rise for the first time after I Put in a new 180 thermo. Old mechanic Magoo ripped thermo out of the old one. Seems to be holding pressure, and I've bled it cold on a hill then started the car heaters full blast.

 

I talked to the mechanic more, I think he said something about reusing the headbolts. Aren't they a stretch type and need to be replaced? The main thing is, I don't wanna tear this thing down just find out I have a bad block. Would a compression test help to isolate a slipped liner? Because if it is bad, Then it is straight to the scrap yard after ripping all the parts off of it.

 

Daughter just crashed mine last weekend... She's fine and the disco isn't too bad for a body man... but now I'm looking for a new one... If you are afraid of wasting money to pull the heads... I'll take it off your hand for what you paid for it.

And yes... they are stretch bolts. You can not re-use them.

 

Well, I'm gonna do a compression check and not overreact just yet. I bought it knowing that if all else fails, i could make money off the parts and scrap. I can make 2k + off parts and sheer weight in scrap. New rad, new tires, clean non curbed wheels, seat switches, abs parts, fan clutch, etc. make me an offer and we'll see

 

Found my infrared thermometer, gonna check around the engine and make sure the temp sensor is not faulty. Updates soon after compression check....snowed today, so I gotta get down to the garage....

 

Opened hood, checked coolant, good level, no water in oil, no slime under cap, etc. Rebled the cooling system after sitting, stone cold, it being 31F degrees today and sitting all night in around 27F degrees, on a hill with elevated overflow reservoir. So here are my infrared temp readings with the car idling from cold start, for about 7 minutes to the temp of 212F kicking the fan on, according to the ultra gauge monitoring the ecu. Measured everything in the car engine bay before starting, after starting and after turning it off. Note this by seeing some of the temp ranges.

-=Cold engine bay before start=-
Note* 88F ecu reading coolant temp at start, on the ultra gauge.

Coolant reservoir and coolant inside - 38-40 F
Coolant bled from upper hose - 39F
Hoses upper - 36-38F
Hose/ thermostat lower - 34-37F
Metal heater core hoses -35-36F
Metal pipe from intake to upper hoses 36-37F
Temp sensor outside temp and aluminum manifold it goes into - 37-40F
Rad temp in various areas - 34-36F
Water pump - 35-36F
Upper intake manifold - 34-35F
Exhaust manifold - 30-32F
Random spots on the head - 36-39F


-=engine warm to 212F while running and turned off=-
Note* 210-212F according to ultra gauge and fan kicking on

Coolant reservoir and coolant inside - 74-78
Coolant bled from upper hose - 150-153
Hoses upper - 124-132
Hose/thermostat lower - 87-94
Metal heater core hoses - 94-98
Metal pipe from intake to upper hoses 137-146
Temp sensor outside temp and aluminum manifold it goes into - 149-153F
Rad temp in various areas - 74-79F
Water pump - 115-120F
Upper intake manifold - 71-78F
Exhaust manifold - 390-420F
Random spots on the head - 130-160F

My question is, does the electric fan run off of the same sensor as the gauge? Or is there another sensor for the electric fan? Could he have installed the wrong sensor, a faulty one, or reused the same one that might have broken?

 

If theres no pressure, and the temp gauge stays normal is fine,,

 

Wow, you didn't read....

 

The ECU monitors that one sensor, and drives multiple events from that including the 212F electric fan kick on. My D1 does not heat that fast, so I must assume you have something going on with the thermostat and/or radiator is sludged up. If you warm up the truck, and shut off, reading with the IR thermometer on the radiator fins, in a vertical line top to bottom, one would expect maybe a 10F spread. Radiator is a horizontal tube array, so all tubes fed in parallel from one side. Gunk in lower tubes make them cooler (less or no flow). So you heat up faster. New rad time. Of course serpantine belt route should be checked as well.

 

New 180 thermo, new radiator that has great flow and I flushed it just to be sure. All things aside, why would my temp reading at start up be 88ish right when I turn the key, when everything is reading 40 or below on infrared....even the coolant.....