I've read many times here the valve cover bolts get a bit loose and it is necessary to snug them up. The p/s I noticed it starting to leak a little. I think they have about 15K on them and are maybe 1.5 years old, so I don't think replacing is needed. Just seeing if there is any particular method that is preferred. Some say do the inside ones then the outside, others say reverse, etc. Being they are leaking a little, I just want to make sure I get a nice even torque across it.
Also, any reason why the p/s would leak and the d/s would not? I'm still trying to track down the small oil/coolant leak that developed somewhere in the front of the engine, but wanted to get this done first so I could wash the motor again and have an easier time tracking it down.

 

From the RAVE:

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Both sides can leak, don't know if one is more likely.

Front leak can be front cover, and also front crank seal, which throws oil some distance.

 

Answer,
Yes, one side is loose, the other isn't. You should make a point of tighten the 2 lower v/c bolts at each oil change cause they do vibrate loose and mechanics love to sell a replacement job for $250 or so since it is easy and usually never needed.

 

The toughest part of the bolt tightening job is finding a 1/4 inch drive, 12 point 8 mm socket. Once you track one down, hang on to it. Do not get a 3/8 inch drive, it won't work, too fat for the indent in the valve cover. You can ususally snug the two lower bolts on each side, which is good because the leaks generally come from the lower side. You might be able to get to one of the upper bolts, as I recall. Snug them often, spray your engine, top bottom, sides, front and back, with simple green and then a quick rinse with the hose and life is good again. Few things are as good as working on a clean engine. Good luck. Phil

 

x one million on finding the 12 point 1/4" 8 mm socket a swivel will help on the drivers side...

 

How tight? Just hand tight, use a extension with the socket on it and tighten them by hand, go by feel, no need to "proper torque values", its just the valve covers.
If you dont get them tight enough they will still leak, doing it by hand you cant go to tight unless you are Lou Ferrigno.


http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...ZVVHqZV0Hevpc6

 

Northern Tool has a deep 3/8" socket which is what i purchased:

Northern Industrial Socket — 3/8in. Drive, 8mm, 12-Pt., Deep | 3/8in. Drive Individual | Northern Tool + Equipment

I have fixed my leaking valve covers by doing the following:

Use Permatex RTV sealant to seal the gasket to the lip of the valve covers and let it dry overnight. Next day, squeeze a bead of RTV on the mating surface on the heads themselves, and carefully place the valve covers on the head and get the bolts in place. Torque them to 10lb/ft.

This repair has lasted me a year thus far on my truck in Las Vegas heat.

 

If you end up replacing them make sure you grab the brass bolt holes that tend to fall lose from the gasket. You don't want that to fall into your engine.

 

when i got my disco, i did magnecore wires, plugs, upper intake gasket, throttle body heater fix, valve cover gaskets, and header to downpipe exhaust gaskets. when i did the valve cover gaskets, i should have put locktite on them, i didnt even think about it at the time.

i have a small leak that keeps dripping on my oil filter above the oil filter "tube/neck" i wonder if it could be from valve covers leaking down, hopefully not the front main seal. ill have to degrease everything and see if i can track it down.

 

I currently have the same leak. It wasn't the valve covers for me(just replaced), pretty sure it's the timing cover gasket, or crankshaft seal.