Last remaining image. I burned the rest.

 

Found another. The day I took delivery. Lifted it and put Treadwright 33" pizza cutters on it.

 

Stately. Nice. Outwardly regal.

But I do prefer the Disco II.

I was sorely tempted by a 95 LB as a spare truck, in a neighboring city that went for about 5k. It was perfect in every way (perfect paint perfect interior, dealer maintained, less than 200k, no leaks... I could have paid out of my pocket right then. Ugh I am experiencing regret as I type this) but I didn't do it because it had all of the same hated, potential, electronic issues of my Disco, though it did not have a single dash light on. It came up when I was having problems with my Disco. Bad timing. Well, that and my wife says the back end looks like a dog squatting. I have no idea where she gets that and it only factored in slightly. I think she likes the boxy look, yet when I show her an lr3 she says "minivan". . Women.

 

The 14CUX system is quirky and if someone removed the little digital read out under the seat good luck guessing what the 14CUX is telling you. I've owned a lot of GEMS/BOSCH LR's and not a one of them has ever had a BECM/ECU/TCM issue.

Pretty much on any LR find one that someone hasn't played god with the electrical system or added video screens or a monster stereo!!! That will destroy whatever reliable electronics your LR may have had from the factory.

My 94 was great (prefer the 95 soft dash myself which was truly beautiful), and it ran great after I rebuilt the dizzy, fixed the vacuum advance, adjusted the air gap, and fixed a cracked T line. It would go months without setting a CEL, and then boom out of the blue it would set a 44 or 48 if memory serves me correctly but that was nothing really. Moving the ignition amplifier away from the dizzy helps solve alot of smooth running issues (standard in 95 & an upgrade on earlier models).

My 94 was truly a rare RRC. It was completely flawless inside & out with just a tiny bit of fading on the British Racing Green paint. No body damage, no broken trim, and absolutely everything worked like it should. I sold it to a friend that begged & begged me to sell it to him. Then he owned it for nearly 6 years and did nothing complain about it being unreliable and he eventually sold it for the same price I sold it to him 6 years later... When I asked him what was so un reliable he said it would kill a battery (still had the OEM stereo which the amp was probably killing the battery), and he said oh well my wife didn't trust it.... That's it!!!! I was like OMG dude don't own a Jeep 97-06 Wrangler lol.

I missed being able to buy it back by 2 weeks. I would have jumped on it in a heartbeat, but he failed to ask if I wanted my baby back so he sold it ASAP and bought some $$$$ mountain bike.

When I see all the RRC's for sale now I puke & laugh at the same time. People want like 4K min for a completely trashed RRC or up to 10K for a nice one like I had. Sorry but I'll go with a D1 with the same setup basically for much less $$$$ and be just as happy.

 

Sorry to the OP for kind of derailing the thread but I did the same with the ignition amp. Built a heat sink and moved it near where the ABS control pump would have been if mine had been equipped with that option, thank god it didn't have it. Those pumps are $1k new and without it you are not going anywhere.

I hear you on the pricing, I got lucky and paid $2600 for my 89' with a lowish mile 4.6 already installed. Had it shipped down from Algonquin Ill. It ran strong for about 1500 miles and fried on I-40. Sourced another 4.6 and had another very knowledgeablerover guy do the build, crower 229 etc. It was a beast for a good 2k but slowly the electronics and wiring gave way.

There is nothing like that body style, just wish they ran like a Toyota. If they did they would be $45k

 

Well I didn't sell any Land Rover's today, but my pristine 98 D1 may have to throw in the towel after today after my wife and I were rear ended at 45MPH in town today.

We were on the freeway about to exit and up ahead about 6 cars went from 65MPH to nothing. I slammed on the brakes and avoided hitting the truck in front of me. My D1 locked up the brakes like a champ and I thought all was good until I heard tires screeching from behind me. A 2012 F250/F350 plowed straight into the back of me at around 45MPH! There was a lovely BOOM, and of coarse not a single one of the people that caused the boo boo stopped to help or check on us.

I put my flashers on and waited till the concrete stopped so I could pull over. I did not want to look at the back of my D1, but I did and at first it doesn't look that bad and the pictures I have don't show the damage to it. I need a new rear door (hinges on body are good), new rear bumper, and the lower part of the right rear fender was pushed forward some. The frame itself looks fine with just a small tweak in one of the hitch bars leading to the frame.

The F250/F350 died a horrific death. Hood blown back nearly into the windshield, grill pushed back and exploded, bumper pushed back, and the left frame rail with a massive tow hook is bent up. He lost all his coolant, transmission fluid, and some oil in just 100yd until he pulled over. He had to be towed and picked up by a friend. I was inroute to drop off some wine glasses & misc cups my wife had sold to a friend. We had one glass die in the process..... We called 911 they took nearly 30min to respond, cop seemed lazy and couldn't care less, then he didn't even block traffic and we almost got hit by a car as we left the accident scene...... I was able to drop the silly glasses off, and drive home like nothing had happened!!! Land Rover's are tough little trucks, but now I have the joys of hearing it's only worth 2-3K and it's totaled, and here is 3K and you can buy it back for 1.5K with a salvage title.... blah blah blah...

It's a classic Land Rover in my books, but I know how insurance companies treat us so I'll be probably one pristine and loved LR short....

 

One of my neighbor's much older F150 recently sustained worse damage when his grandson rear-ended what was likely an LR4 at about same speed. Nice to be driving around in a substantial vehicle as a D2 these days. Had Volvo wagons years ago, both the 145 and 245 had rear hit and drove away while other vehicles in sad shape.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.
......

 

Yeah tomorrow should be fun, going by the body shop and pleading not to have my version of a 67 Mustang Shelby GT350 totaled out due to a rear bumper, right fender damage, and a rear door!

Not sure how it will play out, but a Tactical Rover D1 rear bumper would be my replacement rear bumper of choice vs the OEM chrome bumper and end caps that would require painting, new lights, rear step plastic, and all the little bits n pieces.

Then the part of the right rear fender that got pushed forward would go bye bye with the Tactical Rover rear bumper vs having any paint work done. The rear door opens and closes perfect, just the tire is pushed in, and there is a small crease by the top hinge on the door.

I will not go down without a fight. My D1 was pristine before I was hit and I intend on it being that way after I was hit plan & simple.

 

The Ford sustained a massive damage. I hope you guys were okay and no back injuries to date. As you mentioned that you had damage too and seems like repairable (no picture), thats good. I got hit from the side with a v8 old cadillac from front bumper up to the passenger door. I will replace it to a heavy duty front bumper and just replaced the 2 doors from ebay. The cadilac front end sustained big damage and the steel bumper got crushed. Good luck bro.

 

The pictures I have of my D1 do not show the actual $$$$ damage. The rear door is pushed in due to the spare tire (however that saved the rest of the back end), the bumper is a pool noodle on the RR, and the lower right rear fender is pushed forward 1.5-2inches (however the axle DID NOT move as I measured it from the front of each rear tire and they're within 3mm of each other). Bumper lights are destroyed, plastic grid step on bumper blew apart, and the license plate light/door latch assembly plastic blew to bits.

I can avoid a lot of actual body work if I can talk the body shop into using the Tactical Rovers rear bumper. The part of the rear fender that is tweaked would be cut off. Then that would just leave the door issue, and license plate light/door latch assembly. (I think a good strap and a ratchet strap to a tree would pull out most of the door myself). It opens flawless with no pops or dragging.

This is the second D1 to save me or my family. The first one I had rolled 3-4 times down a fence line taking the fence out as I rolled, then I hit a massive tree head on, I walked away without a scratch. That D1 was totaled, but all the doors opened properly and no glass broke!

My wife and I are fine with no back issues. I was a little sore right after the wreck and it was from slamming on the brakes so hard to avoid the mess, then seeing that huge Ford plow into the rear of us, but I am perfectly fine today.

Saddest part of the entire thing was the people that caused it or witnessed it, never stopped.... Only the Ford that was able to coast 100yd stopped... I sometimes really wonder what this world is coming to..... I was not raised to pass up an accident or someone in need of help.