After just having spend $500 to have my radiator hose and purge hose replaced, another hose clamp put on (old was was apparently missing), and a used vehicle inspection done on a recently purchase 2000 Disco, I think i'm about done going to the stealership...forever. On that note, I am not a mechanic, but I have plenty of tools, time, and the desire to learn how to fix my own LR. Here are a couple of questions I just need quickly answered so I can start figuring out where a good place to start is.

1) On my Disco I have shocks/coils (rather than Air Suspension), and am curious to know if there is some defining feeling or sensor that will let me know when the shocks and coils needs to be replaced? The Disco has about 83,000 miles on it, and i see no records of having those replaced in what records i do have. I realize the overall ride is not that smooth to begin with, but what should i be looking for to determine whether or not its time to replace those? Excuse my ignorance, but do you replace both sets in the front AND the rear at the same time? Both Shocks AND Coils at the same time too?

2) LR Dealer inspection said Rear Main Crucifix Seal is leaking oil and will need to be replaced. Is this something I can can likely do myself with a repair manual?

3) Inspection said RT idler pulley was worn out and needs replacing, is THIS something i can myself?

4) Inspection said Exhaust valve gaskets leaking (I complained about a "ticking" sound coming when i drive), is this something I can do myself?

5)Lastly, if I repair any of the above problems, is there anything else you would recommend i replace while i'm in that area doing work anyway?

If there's something on the list i can't do myself, I'd likely take it to a local mechanic i know, but honestly id rather just do the work myself if If it's not going to involve tremendous amount of time and knowledge I dont already have. In any event, thanks for the advice!

 

Based on what your dealer charged you for the hose(s) and used vehicle inspection, I’d say that you’re making the right decision to avoid them in the future. I recently replaced my upper radiator hose assembly (comes as one unit that runs from radiator, to water pump, to t-stat) and it cost about $52 for the genuine LR parts. All tolled, that project took me, a weekend wrench, about 30-45 minutes. I think it’s safe to assume that the dealer’s techs could get through it faster than me. That said, unless the inspection included general maintenance work (oil change, plug change, filters, etc.) you were either overcharged for the hoses or for the inspection……or both.

On to your specific questions as best I can do……

There is no sensor that’ll tell you whether your shocks are going/gone. In most cases, mileage and ride quality are the best gauges. It’s pretty safe to assume that your shocks, if OEM, are past their prime at 85k. I pulled the front shocks in my Disco because one of them had a bad lower-mount bushing. The ride quality wasn’t that bad…..it was just making a clunk when the eye of the shock would ride on its mount bracket. Once out of the vehicle, I found that one of the shocks was completely blown. The moral to that story is, these trucks are so heavy and rigid, it’s often difficult to notice/feel that your shocks are ready to be replaced (unless you off-road it…..in which case something like a blown shock would be more obvious). The shocks are a DIY job but the rears are definitely easier than the fronts. Although the fronts can be done entirely from under the hood (no jacking, no wheel removal, etc.), there’s a fair amount of finagling required (things like the coolant reservoir need to be disconnected and moved out of the way so the shock towers can be removed). Go buy a good 24� ratchet extension and give yourself a few hours to tackle the job. If you want to do the springs at the same time (which some people might suggest), it’s a completely different and more-complicated job. Personally, with your mileage, I think it’s still worth doing the shocks even if you don’t take on the springs.

Rear crucifix seal……..I’d run this one by Disco Mike or some of the more-technical board members.

Idler pulley is an easy job. Replace your serpentine belt while you’re at it.

Exhaust gasket……ease of repair depends on where the leak is. If it’s at the manifold (i.e., where exhaust meets the cylinder head) it’s a bigger job than if it’s where the y-pipe (unit that contains cats) meets the exhaust manifold. Note, gasket can often be a misdiagnosis when it comes to leaks on these systems. Both stock manifold and y-pipes have been known to crack. My y-pipe cracked at the flange where it meets the manifold and it would have been very easy to mistake it for a gasket leak. Best thing to do is, start the truck when it’s COLD and, before the pipes heat up, feel around in the area that you’re hearing the leak. You should be able to pinpoint whether it’s actually coming from a gasket or a crack. If it is, in fact, a crack, you’ll either need to have it spot-welded or replace the part.


I hope some of this is helpful. Note that my use of the word “easy� is based on my experiences. Your own comfort/skill level is a variable. I wouldn’t want to suggest that you go knee deep into a job that’s over your head…..but I think you’d be fine even as a novice wrench-turner. These rigs are pretty basic in mechanics.

Good luck.

 

Send me your tele number and a good time for me to call you and I'll be glad to answer all your questions.
Mike
mikeljacobs@comcast.net