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Squeaky coolant leak

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Old 11-18-2011, 10:21 PM
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Default Squeaky coolant leak

I replaced my radiator, thermostat, and hoses about 3 months ago, drove my disco across the country from the east coast to Colorado and yesterday it overheated. There is a loud repetitive squeaking coming from the water pump area so I'm guessing this needs to be replaced?

I have the Rave manual and have read (many times now) on how to change it out. I am in Steamboat Springs, CO and we have a Napa, but no dealer within a few hours to get the necessary tools for the viscous fan removal. I can get ahold of a 36mm wrench but I don't have a wrench to keep the pulley stationary. Is there another way to make this happen? I have also read where some people have had a timing cover leak instead of a water pump leak and I'm hoping this isn't the case but if it is, how can I tell the difference before changing the pump and finding out it's not the problem?

I'm hoping to get the pump changed out tomorrow (forecast for 27 degrees and snow, sweet) and was wondering if there is any tips or tricks or things I should really look out for when doing this job. Thanks in advance from a water pump newb!
 
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:35 PM
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It is your water pump.
Take your truck to a muffler shop or indie shop and have them remove the fan for you, give them $10 cash and its all good.
Then go ahead and replace your water pump.
With the wrench on the fan nut if you whack it with a hammer you can break the fan loose usually.
 
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:35 PM
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Thanks Bud. The fan nut is a normal left loose scenario from the front of the truck, correct? 2001 DII.
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:26 AM
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Yep, whack wrench handle toward passenger side to release. Some also use strap wrench to hold pulley fixed, I was able to pull up on belt. Just used channel locks, and hammer. Have also used crescent wrench. Really bad pump will wobble the pulley, then eventualy come off with radiator ending results. Here's pic of what it will look like. Be careful to keep bolts in order, they are various lengths. If stubborn, try tighten slightly before braking loose, it is bad to snap of one and leave a stud hanging out. With engine warm before swap out, may want to check fan clutch to be sure it does not allow fan to spin more than 1 revolution by hand. If freewheeling, clutch is gone, and NAPA sells a chevy cross over for about $50, write up in tech section. When putting everything back together, cupped side of fan blades go toward block, and be sure to use correct belt route.

Exam your fan to be sure no missing chunks out of the blade, and no trash hiding in the fan cowl. One owner re-did his, went for test drive, and fan blew a chuck of old plastic thru the radiator....
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:00 AM
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Yep, fan clutch is definitely freewheeling so I get the joy of adding that to the list of things to do, woke up to 6 inches of snow. I'll be drinking beers and cursing before I know it!
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:46 AM
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Do you know of a model number/year truck of the Chevy fan clutch for $50 at Napa? They found me one that is made for the Rover for $109 but it won't get here until late next week, I've got fresh tracks to make and the guy at Napa apparently knew how to only enter in keys in the computer...help!
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:00 PM
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:04 PM
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So that model will work for a 2001 Disco II as well? Thanks Spike!

Also, I know it's not desirable, but, if my fan clutch is bad and I can't get one for another week or two, will it do much harm re-installing the old fan clutch until I can get a new one to replace it?
 

Last edited by ogden45; 11-19-2011 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:30 PM
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1. If you are not stopped or going slow, you don't even need a fan, so old one would be OK. In some third world garden spots, locals have been known to drill holes thru clutch and bolt together. If you have to do that kind of emergency surgery, don't run truck at high rpm.

Another work around, if you are in a cool climate, and don't need AC - unplug electric wire going to AC compressor. On a D1 you can turn on AC and the electric fans come on at once. On a D2 the ECM decides when the electric fan comes on. That would be extra cooling if you had no main fan.

2. Chevy 4.3 engine fan clutch non-AC will fit, as will may other late 90's - early 2000's Chevy GMC clutches. They use the same fun to take off nut from water pump, and they are six inch diameter, and they are reverse direction. I have done the Chevy clutch conversion from the write up, also got a 2000 Blazer clutch from the junkyard an slapped that on. Point being that you might not have Rovers in your junk yard, but there will be no shortage of Chevy's.

3. With all the conversions you have to slightly enlarge the holes for mounting your fan on the clutch. BE SURE YOU MARK FAN FRONT AND BACK before taking apart. Cupped side of blade goes toward motor.
 
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