SS Braided Brake Line Install - Flare Nut Repair?
#1
SS Braided Brake Line Install - Flare Nut Repair?
Hi All,
I've got an AB 6-line SS braided brake line kit install that has gone awry. Both old back lines and passenger side front line came out ok. But when I got to the front driver's side, all of the connections fought me. I got one of the connections on the short lines that go to the back of the truck out, but it still looks like it was cross-threaded and should probably be addressed. The other 4 connections (3 remaining short line and 1 for front driver's ss braided line) have all seized. I followed all instructions that I could find online, including the tech video posted by AB. I used a flare wrench, soaked them in penetrant, you name it.
This must have happened to someone else before. What's the right way to fix it? Is there enough extra length in these lines to cut off the old flare nuts and install new ones? Is there such a thing as an adapter that will thread into the flare connection on the ss lines and use a compression fitting connection on the other side after I cut off the flare nut?
Please help! Bonus points for a solution where all the parts can be purchased locally. I'd really like to be driving this thing again by the weekend.
Many Thanks,
Jason
I've got an AB 6-line SS braided brake line kit install that has gone awry. Both old back lines and passenger side front line came out ok. But when I got to the front driver's side, all of the connections fought me. I got one of the connections on the short lines that go to the back of the truck out, but it still looks like it was cross-threaded and should probably be addressed. The other 4 connections (3 remaining short line and 1 for front driver's ss braided line) have all seized. I followed all instructions that I could find online, including the tech video posted by AB. I used a flare wrench, soaked them in penetrant, you name it.
This must have happened to someone else before. What's the right way to fix it? Is there enough extra length in these lines to cut off the old flare nuts and install new ones? Is there such a thing as an adapter that will thread into the flare connection on the ss lines and use a compression fitting connection on the other side after I cut off the flare nut?
Please help! Bonus points for a solution where all the parts can be purchased locally. I'd really like to be driving this thing again by the weekend.
Many Thanks,
Jason
#2
WHen I replaced my jump lines, one of the fittings was very corroded and the threads stripped on the fitting on one of the lines going to the rear.
I ended up cutting off the flare and installing a new fitting and flaring the line. It is a bubble flare.
Here is more info on my experience: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-my-dii-62156/
I ended up cutting off the flare and installing a new fitting and flaring the line. It is a bubble flare.
Here is more info on my experience: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-my-dii-62156/
#3
Easily done in a weekend assuming you hav a decently stocked O'Reilly nearby. I don't know how long a brake line you are going to need, but based on the https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-my-dii-62156/
link, let's assume 40" and you need a bubble flare where it connects to the brake hose...
Also, I just woke up, and I am giving part numbers from memory, and only had a cup of coffee...
Get an EDE 6340PVF line, two EDE 121030 3/16"nuts, a EDE 123300 3/16" union, and the 67001 rental tool. That line is bubble flare on both. Finding a bubble flare tool is difficult, so cut the end off one end of the line, and remove the nut from that end. Slide the 121030 nut over the cut end, and use the 67001 tool to make an inverted flare for the nut.
You now have a line that has bubble flare on one end (to fit your brake hose) and standard 3/16" inverted on the other (to join it to your vehicle.
On the line on the vehicle you had to cut: slide the 121030 nut over the cut line, use the tool to flare the end, and slide the nut back to the flare you just made. You can now screw the two sections together with the 123300 union.
Threaded fittings are MUCH safer than compression fittings when it comes to brake lines!!
link, let's assume 40" and you need a bubble flare where it connects to the brake hose...
Also, I just woke up, and I am giving part numbers from memory, and only had a cup of coffee...
Get an EDE 6340PVF line, two EDE 121030 3/16"nuts, a EDE 123300 3/16" union, and the 67001 rental tool. That line is bubble flare on both. Finding a bubble flare tool is difficult, so cut the end off one end of the line, and remove the nut from that end. Slide the 121030 nut over the cut end, and use the 67001 tool to make an inverted flare for the nut.
You now have a line that has bubble flare on one end (to fit your brake hose) and standard 3/16" inverted on the other (to join it to your vehicle.
On the line on the vehicle you had to cut: slide the 121030 nut over the cut line, use the tool to flare the end, and slide the nut back to the flare you just made. You can now screw the two sections together with the 123300 union.
Threaded fittings are MUCH safer than compression fittings when it comes to brake lines!!
#4
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the input. I went out and bought that list of parts and I'm about to go out and give it a whirl. If I'm successful, does anyone around the forums know of someone in the Houston area with a Hawkeye diagnostic tool that I could use to run the ABS bleed program? As I write this, I realize that it's kind of ironic that I don't have one, given my forum name. I should probably do something about that.
Please let me know!
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks for the input. I went out and bought that list of parts and I'm about to go out and give it a whirl. If I'm successful, does anyone around the forums know of someone in the Houston area with a Hawkeye diagnostic tool that I could use to run the ABS bleed program? As I write this, I realize that it's kind of ironic that I don't have one, given my forum name. I should probably do something about that.
Please let me know!
Thanks,
Jason
#5
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the input. I went out and bought that list of parts and I'm about to go out and give it a whirl. If I'm successful, does anyone around the forums know of someone in the Houston area with a Hawkeye diagnostic tool that I could use to run the ABS bleed program? As I write this, I realize that it's kind of ironic that I don't have one, given my forum name. I should probably do something about that.
Please let me know!
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks for the input. I went out and bought that list of parts and I'm about to go out and give it a whirl. If I'm successful, does anyone around the forums know of someone in the Houston area with a Hawkeye diagnostic tool that I could use to run the ABS bleed program? As I write this, I realize that it's kind of ironic that I don't have one, given my forum name. I should probably do something about that.
Please let me know!
Thanks,
Jason
#6
Originally I just gravity bled them, which took hours and involved a 6 pack while waiting, then engaged low range and HDC and drove up and down my street at ~10MPH letting the HDC get any remaining bubbles out.
I then learned that I could just remove the ABS relay under hood, and jump it to activate the ABS. With long enough wires from the relay socket, I could touch the ends of the wires while under the vehicle after the bleeder had been loosened. With the ABS pump running, brake fluid would be forced out of the bleeder hose faster than someone pumping the brake pedal. Close bleeder, un-connect wire ends, and move to next wheel.
Now that I have the Autocom software which can bleed, I haven't had any kind of brake problems requiring a bleed. Oh well, next year it will be time to change the brake fluid...
I then learned that I could just remove the ABS relay under hood, and jump it to activate the ABS. With long enough wires from the relay socket, I could touch the ends of the wires while under the vehicle after the bleeder had been loosened. With the ABS pump running, brake fluid would be forced out of the bleeder hose faster than someone pumping the brake pedal. Close bleeder, un-connect wire ends, and move to next wheel.
Now that I have the Autocom software which can bleed, I haven't had any kind of brake problems requiring a bleed. Oh well, next year it will be time to change the brake fluid...
#7
#8
Here is a handy link which describes most everything you'll need to know about braking systems.
Brakes: Braking Systems
Brakes: Braking Systems
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