My 2001 Disco II will be needing trans cooler lines replaced soon. I have followed several threads regarding the process. However, what I have not seen is anyone having experience replacing the "OEM" style lines with braided stainless lines. The brief research I have done indicates there are manufacturers who produce these lines rated up to 1000 psi.; Aeroquip, Russell and Earls to name a few. It seems rerouting the lines would become infinitely less troublesome and less prone to leakage in the future as the lines would be 1 piece? Plus, stainless lines look good too. Lets talk about it.

 

I think it comes down to cost.
We have them for the oil cooler lines but I would not call them hot sellers.

 

I agree the cost is higher not to mention the associated costs for the fabrication tools (about $150) personally, I would continue to upgrade to braided stainless for other lines as well, as the need arises. Just a matter of taste I suppose although I believe the braided stainless is commonly understood as a superior product.

 

I'm really new to the Disco scene but are there AN or NPT adapters that will allow an owner to use generic hose? I have no idea (I assume English vs. Metric) what the fittings and threads look like.

On the German cars (BMW) that I own and race we just get generic adapters and then run general Ford/Chevy parts for a lot of the lines, coolers and hoses.

Why not just do the same?

It's similar to the brakes on a lot of the older BMWs - do you want to spend tons of money on the "fancy vintage" (rare, period correct) racing calipers & rotors or do you want to spend a little cash once on an adapter bracket and run cheap, off-the-shelf Wildwood or Brembos that are a dime-a-dozen??

 

I think they aren't used very often because they don't look sweet for long on a Rover because they get covered in oil from all of the leaking gaskets on the engine and the power steering pump.

 

You don't need high pressure lines for coolers.
I just used some tube compression to hose barb adapters, cut off the old hose, installed the adapters and used some low pressure hydraulic hose with quality heavy duty all stainless hose clamps. I covered the flexible hose with heat reflective tubing and the whole thing cost well under $100. If the hose is ever damaged I can now replace it for less than $10.

 

Yeah I agree there are several ways to fix a leak. I am wondering about a more permanent answer while improving upon the factory routing of the stock lines. I am also wondering if it is possible to plumb in a solution to adding/draining fluid from a more advantageous position while the vehicle is running i.e. under the hood rather than under the vehicle.......

 

??
I wasn't talking a temporary fix. What I've done is permanent, short of damage. At least as permanent as hydraulic hose is, around 30 years.

 

Do you have any photos? This sounds great. Also like the idea it is easy to replace.