So I snapped my coolant bleed screw today , some superglue got me through an emergency fix but I need to replace it.

I was searching ebay for the brass screw and I stumbled across this stainless steel coolant t with bleeder:
Land Rover Discovery Coolant T with Bleed Screw | eBay

It claims it helps getting the heater core bled, which I've been struggling with. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

It's not going to bleed the system any better than the plastic t. Changing the material from plastic to stainless only makes the item more durable. Just go to advance or auto zone and get dorman part number 902-404. It's a set of two bleeder screws. Most times these break because they are over tightened and are design to give way before they do damage to the t itself.

Dorman - OE Solutions Coolant Air Bleeder Screw 902-404: Advance Auto Parts

 

It's hard to tell for sure from the photos in the ebay listing, but it looks like they didn't use any purging when they welded the 'T'.
What that causes is a crappy weld on the inside of the pipe. Probably not a big deal for the application, but for $95 I'd expect it to be done right.

 

My local auto part stores have been less than helpful. I've been to both Advanced an O'Reillys. I actually went to Advanced yesterday looking for that screw. I tried to find a generic replacement and as soon as I told them it was for a Land Rover they give up and tell me I'll need to go to the dealership. From now on I'm only going to use my local auto parts store for fluids and filters.

It appears as I thought, the new T probably wouldn't help bleeding. So then is it better to stick with the plastic bleed screws or would I be ok with the upgrade to the brass bleeder screw?

 

Inless it has a 6 inch high bleader it cant heat with bleeding your heater core

 

I am using the brass bleeder screw. You will still have to be careful to not over-tighten the brass screw into the plastic T-joint.

 

Raise the front of the vehicle.


That is all you need to do.


I have a hill in my back yard which is steep, I pull the rover up it, running, and open the bleeder. Last time I did that was fall of last year. Temps stay the same, fluid level hasn't changed since. No rushing waterfall noise either.


My 75 fiat had the same configuration, their manual tells you to raise the front end.