Cool. Good to know. It would have taken me a long time to suspect the starter solenoid

 

Caution ! There is a good chance that when the starter was replaced, a poor connection was corrected/improved when installed the new one and the 'repair' is the result of a misleading side-effect from not-tight, oily, dirty or corroded connection that got improved in the 'procedure'.
Also, digital modern multimeters are very high impedance instruments not revealing poor connections and voltage drops ! Also, the starter can be good with a poor solenoid contact. And most important, the best friend battery terminals can have to clear voltage drops is a wire brush to shine them !
-Murphy is always lurking ! -

+12VBAT--------------A-------------poor joint-----------------B---------------load--------------C--------------chassis-----------------BAT(-)

A high impedance voltmeter will measure the same voltage probing A or B nodes; while a low impedance as a cheap 'test light' can find the poor joint.

 

@Externet Thanks for adding to the discussion, I started with your path when the voltage issue started, cleaned the battery terminals and connectors checked for rub through etc. I was just adding information to my observations, I asked to the shop to see if the tech did anything with the starter end cable or found any crud buildup between the starter an block.

It would be easier if I saw a new battery terminal or something simple like that.

 

I’m having starting issues as well in my 2001 Series II. I bought it from someone a month ago. It ran fine, then last week when I tried to start it, it makes a really fast sound like a machine gun. It makes that sound when I turn the key and try to crank it. Someone suggested the starter solenoid needs to be replaced. Does that sound correct?

 

@Phigamkyle1848 Assume battey 1st, check your battery 1st thing in the morning before starting. An iffy battery will often not provide enough cranking amps.