One more thing. It only runs for that fraction of a second on the first try after it's been sitting a while. After that it doesn't start at all. It turns over fine. It hasn't run in a couple months and hasn't run since all those parts were replaced. All of the work was done by local shade tree mechanics so I'm going back over everything leaving nothing to chance. I agree it's a fuel problem. I'll check the fuel filter. I was wondering is it possible they might have installed it backwards and would that block off the fuel flow. It's night time so I won't be able to check until the morning. Thanks again.

 

Yes they could have installed the fuel filter backwards and that would not aloow the correct amount of fuel to be pushed through.
I just thought of this this morning, the fuel temp sensor may be bad, it is a $100 part brand new from www.atlanticbritish.com, when it fails the truck will be hard to start and will run very rough so that is something to keep in might.
Also keep in mind that with then crap quality fuel that you guys have in Mexico and the fact that the truck has been sitting for several months you may have stale gas too.
These trucks do not like stale gas, I had gotten some and I could feel it everytime she sucks some into the engine.
I do not know how fast you should beable to fill a litre jar with the fuel pump, when testeing a fuel pump on a carburated car we needed to fill a quart bottle in under 30 seconds if I remember right.
Please keep us posted on your progerss.

 

Well, I decided to just go through the whole fuel system just to see how things are. I pulled the fuel filter and checked the side. It was installed backwards. I activated the fuel pump with the outlet side of the filter disconnected and got lots of fuel. I reconnected the fuel line and activated the pump again. I had lots of pressure all the way to the fuel log. I checked at the schrade valve and got good pressure. I unhooked the jumper wire from the fuel pump and went back to using the key. The fuel pump didn't activate with the key on. I have a wiring diagram so I started checking connections. The hot input to the relay comes on with the ignition switch. The blue and purple wire that supplies the ground doesn't get a ground signal from the ECU. When I supply a ground the relay clicks on and the fuel pump starts. I do have spark. I checked with a timing light on all of the spark plug wires. The coil has good spark also. I'm wondering if the fuel injectors are getting a signal from the ECU. I haven't had time to check yet. I also have a 10 acre tropical fruit farm to run so I do a little each day on the rover. I'm thorough and don't give up. I also pay attention when someone makes a suggestion or has an idea. This car was near the ocean so it has some rust. I'm going to clean up all of the grounding points. On the wiring diagram they list ECU pins B40/5, B40/14, and B40/40 as going directly to a grounding point. I need to locate that grounding point and clean it. I did notice some corrosion on the ECU so I opened it up and there was some corrosion inside. I cleaned it up and reinstalled the ecu. We had a rain last night and I noticed the car leaks on that side. I don't have access to a scanner but I'm an experienced electrician and have the ability to check things out. If you have any ideas on troubleshooting ECU's let me know. Also, out of curiosity, what does a new ECU go for. Do you know a good source. Also do they sell rebuilt or aftermarket ones. I'm new to this particular car so would appreciate any tips from the Land rover fanatics reading this. Thanks.

 

www.roverlandparts.com
www.autosportsunlimited.com
www.atlanticbritish.com
Roverland would be your best bet for a used ECU, I would not waste money on a new one.
Here is a link with ground based electrical problems...
http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/g...l_problems.cfm
If the fuel pump relay will not work on its own then I would tend to think it is bad, you should not have to jump it to get it to work, if I understood you correctly.
Look for cracked solder joints on the ECU, in older Rovers this is a common problem, especially with the window lift ECU and the alarm spider so definitely worth looking into, just resolder and you will be good.

 

Thanks for the tips. The relay was replaced as part of the previous owners attempts to fix it. The relay winding gets juice when I turn on the key. It also needs to get a ground to activate which is sent through the ecu. The ecu doesn't send a ground so it doesn't kick off. I haven't opened these relays up but in the old style ones you just had an electro magnet thet was activated by a hot wire and a ground. When the electromagnet kicked in it pulled up a bar which made a connection between two wires. It's just a simple switch. the fuel pump relay gets the juice to activate it from the ignition. The ecu controls when it turns on or off by controlling the ground being sent to the relay. The ecu in this car isn't sending a ground so the relay doesn't kick in. I'm pretty sure that is why the fuel injestors aren't kicking in. I'm pretty sure they are controlled by the pulsing of the ground signal sent to them from the ecu. I've pressurized the fuel log by triggering the fuel pump but the engine stills doesn't start or even fire. It has good strong spark going to all the spark plug wires. New plugs also. The only thing between the cylinders and the fuel log are the injectors. They also have a positive and negative side and open when they have a juice and a ground present. The ecu pulses them so they're getting fuel at the right time. I know you probably already know this stuff. I'm just telling you so you'll know how I'm looking at things. This car has been messed with a bit so I'm going through things. Last night I looked up all of the relays in the car and wrote down the color coded for the wires going into them. Who ever worked on this last pulled all the relays off their mounts and left them hanging so I don't know where any of them go or what they are. By checking the wire color combinations against the wiring diagram I can identify the relays and label them making it easier for me to find them again. When I get a fixer upper like this I like going through it and putting things back in place. I'll know for sure what's wrong with it before I order any parts. Thanks for the links and once again thanks for taking the time to help me.

 

Oh one more thing you mention cracked solder joints on the ecu. Where do they usually crack? Around the pins or on the board. The ecu has been leaking and got water in it the last rain we had I dried it out and will try sealing it better. He also replaced the ecu for the power windows. Where is the alarm spider, also where is it. What is it. I haven't found any info on the alarm system. Any way to completely disable it or bypass it. Those things make me nervous. I'll be my own security. Thanks

 

You will have to give me time to look up and post the links to the alarm spider bypass links.
I have them bookmarked but I need to sign in under my name on my wifes computer to get to them, right now I am under her so I dont have any of my bookmarks.

The cracks will be at the pins, they may be hard to see, but just clean them up and resolder any broken ones, or just do them all if you want.

So I am guessing then that if you load up the intake with fuel it will run?
That just leaves the injectors then.
You dont have a crank sensor.
http://www.roverparts.com/Nxt/search...or&btn-submit=
Or a cam sensor.
http://www.roverparts.com/Nxt/search...amshaft+sensor
So I am not sure what tells the injectors to fire.

 

Sorry it took so long, here are those links.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v...icalSpider.htm