consider this from the RAVE:

And also from the RAVE:

The multiport fuel injection system is a returnless system with the fuel pressure maintained at a constant level by a fuel pressure regulator. The regulator is located in the fuel pump housing and returns excess fuel directly from the pump to the tank.

An electrically operated fuel pump is located in the top of the fuel tank and supplies fuel at pressure to two fuel rails via a flexible hose. The hose is attached to the feed pipe on the fuel rail at the rear of the engine and the fuel pump with sealed quick release couplings.

So IMHO, if you are seeing spitting of fuel back there, might the problem be a defective regulator, which may mean replace who pump assembly?

For electrical, see attached. The white/purple is the "hot wire" from the fuel pump relay, black is ground. And I suppose that reversed pump polarity would also be a bad thing.

 

ryann, send me your number and I'll walk you thru what to check.
In the mean time, have you replaced the fuel pump relay?

 

i had a buddy come over and we can hear the pump turn on when the key is on, the relay is working ( we opened the case and can see it make contact) and it even turned over for about 5 seconds then abrutly died. fuses are good, and cranks with starting fluid, and the fuel cut off switch has been repeatedly hit ( just to make sure)
so how do i check the fuel pressure?

 

"Turning over" and "cranking" are the same thing, that means the engine is being "cranked" or "turned over" by the starter but the engine is NOT running.

SOOOOOO, it RUNS when you use starting fluid, which means you have spark.
So you are not getting fuel for some reason, you just need to figure out why.
It is going to be the fuel pump, no need to check the fuel pressure, you are not getting any.
Either the fuel pump was hooked up backwards when you replaced the pump or your wires are backwards at the pump.
When you replaced just the pump you had to run the pump wires yes? The universal pump did not have a exact fit plug on it correct?

I am not trying to beat a dead horse and I realize that the work has already been done, but is the hassle worth the $100 or so you saved?

You have tested everything you can, it is something to do with the fuel pump, it will run backwards if the power is hooked up wrong.

 

lol, yea brother, this hasnt been worth saving a 100.00$. its been an interesting adventure, given me a good reason to have that "extra' beer with a bud, but i gotta get my truck running again before the wifey torches it!
im going to try to reverse the wiring just for a quick test but if that doesnt work, im replacing the whole assembly.
disco mike, look for my pm with my number in a few mins. ( 2:15 11/12/2011)
im over my head here.

 

still got nothing. waiting for a bud to come by with his multimeter tester, another with his diagnostic.
driving me crazy.
i can hear the pump, it starts with starting fluid, uuuuggggghhh!!!!
is there another relay or fuse?
is the inertia switch bad? can it be bypassed temporarily?

 

The pump will only run for 4 or 5 seconds and then shut off if the engine is not started.

 

And if it runs for a few seconds it is not the inertia switch. And yes, there are other fuses and things. But if it starts on fluid, ecm is running, sensors are powered up, and crank position sensor is working. To test fuel pressure there is a schrader valve, but it is under a corner of the intake manifold. Designed to maximize technician repair billing. Here is RAVE sheet on cranking diagram.

 

Man I am sorry to hear this, I wish I could help more.

Did you replace the strainer on the pump assembly?
Is it on correctly?
Is the strainer clogged?

 

You can force it to run longer, just pull out fuel pump relay and stick a piece of wire in as a jumper on the contact points (not the coil terminals). Of course, if pump is dry you'll burn it up.