OK, here are some screen shots of different conditions today. I did check the pins and none show corrosion or are bent.

I moved around the O2 sensors from Bank 2 and Bank 1. I have a Walker, Bosch and an original Land Rover that was in Bank 2 when this all started.

Weird thing is Original and Bosch voltage does not move much before the voltage not changing at all and then the check engine light come on with the code P0134.

The Walker actually changes voltage but creeps up to 1.125 and then once it holds steady there the check engine light will come on with P0134.

I am using the Bluedriver ODB2 scan tool.

You will see the coolant temperature on the screen to so you know where the voltage was when the key was in position II before the engine was started for the low coolant temperture.

Sorry for the large pictures, not sure how to upload them so they are smaller

 

I had similar issues with o2 sensor codes poping up
I did have cracks in my wire plug to o2 sensor I had a couple spare plugs from my rear o2 sensors that plug right into the front o2 sensors

but your idling rough which tells me it’s more than just your o2 sensors

in my case it would sometimes idle rough and bad exhaust smell. This ended up being a faulty purge valve which would stick open and dump vapours into my intake throwing off my idle and fuel mixtures and would trigger my drivers side o2 sensor pre cat

 

Ok, what we can tell for sure is B2 original and walker sensors are fine, wiring is fine on B2, and ecu is fine on B2. On cold start the sensor should read steady and slightly high to low - the ECU does not start cycling the AFR until the cats have had time to light off and the engine is slightly warm.

B1 looks like it is actually rich. Put the Walker in B1, original in B2, let it come up to temperature and make sure B2 is cycling, then pull the brake booster vacuum line. That should make the engine go lean - we should see B2 go to close to zero - let's see what B1 goes to. Then unplug B1 - it should go close to zero but sometimes they go to .450 and hold steady.

You might have a leaking injector on B1. What is the STFT on B1, and LTFT?

 

I need a little clarification. When you say unplug B1. Can I do this as soon as the engine cools down. That side is hard to get two hands on the connector from underneath or above without touching the manifold.

Also, What is STFT and LTFT? If you mean the fuel % mixture that got got cut off from the screen shot. Those percentages are not showing much and not moving changing like the are on B2.

I want to try and put some miles since Sunday when I unplugged the battery. The ECU I believe is still in learning stage but will do the vacuum line idea once I get some miles in.

Thanks for the help,

 

By unplugging we are comparing a known lean engine (brake booster line off) to an unplugged o2 - temperatures should be similar, best if they are not in cold start condition. STFT and LTFT are short and long term fuel trim. They are the adjustments the ECU makes based on the 02s. There is a limit to how much adjustment the ECU can make. For example, if you have a dead 02, they read zero volts. ECU reads this a a severe lean condition, goes full rich, which I think is about 10% max ST/LT FT. ST fluctuates more based on air temp, humidity, etc. If the O2 is actually working, ECU is working, then the Fuel trims will go towards the limit.

 

I created a little loop using some plastic pipe hanger strap and zip-tied the B1P1 connector away from the exhaust manifold as pictured (but not before the exhaust manifold nearly ruined the harness wiring, as also pictured).

If you do the same using anything you can scrounge for an anchor point I think you could disconnect the sensor right after shutting down the engine, or even with it still running and not burn your hands.

 

Extinct,

Here is the latest. First the SHRTFT reads at 0%.

I'm stating to think the issue is the left side is running rich. O2 sensor is good, and wiring is good. It's getting voltage but the voltage does not have big of reading swings as the right side. I am getting code P0130 so the ECU is getting voltage its just out of the correct stoichiometric ratio.

Today I took it for a test drive. The voltage did not hold at a constant but bounced but only between +- .20 or so.

Parked it with the engine on it and pulled the brake vacuum line. Heard a big air release almost like unplugging a pneumatic tool from an air compressor and the engine shut off.

Plugged it back in and drove it home.

I did not pull Bank 1 left side oxygen sensor.

Does this info tell any more?

Thanks for the help

 

Well since the brake vacuum line killed it that means it is not running so rich as to be able to run with that open. We need to force it lean, just to confirm that the sensor circuit is good and then you can look for why it is actually rich. Try a smaller vacuum line, watch/record both sensors. We want to see both banks go to zero volts. Best to do it while it is running and record the sensor voltages as they walk down. Bank 1 might not ever go to zero if it really is full rich. Pull the plugs on that side and post a photo of the plugs - do all of them, lets make sure it really is rich and they are dark. If only one is dark we may have a clue as to the leaking injector (very rare).They might immediately go to zero, then walk up as the computer compensates. You might even have to disconnect Bank 2 first, then pull the vacuum line on the booster.

 

OK, I get the pictures done this weekend.

What are your thoughts on the Mass Airflow Sensor?

I'm thinking because it is just one bank the MAF would would affect both sides.

I also have a P38 so this would be easy to swap it out to see but again it seems the MAF would affect both sides of the engine.

 

Yes, it's very unlikely it's the MAF. Maybe impossible.