new waterpump, radiator, thermostat and elbow pipe. gets hot fast but reads normal temp on gauge. Went to a shop and the guys tried to help me burp it but we tried everything and its still getting hot. Cant detect and exhaust in the coolant and not leaks around the head. It starts to push the water out of the bottle as it heats up all the way to a boil. head gasket? cracked block? warped head?

 

The instrument panel coolant temperature gauge is useless. If you read here or elsewhere or even the factory service manual (the RAVE) you will find it functions as an idiot light and not as a true gauge.

If my truck were exhibiting the symptoms yours is I would replace the coolant reservoir cap. They are designed to hold pressure in the system but they fail when they get old. They are inexpensive and available at any auto parts store.

Good luck, and please post the outcome of whatever you do here for the benefit of other.

 

well that helps me with why the temp gauge reads normal while the engine is overheating but it doesn't help me with any ideas on why I'm still getting hot. I don't want to chage gaskets if the block has issues.

 

You have to bleed the cooling system when the engine is cold. It may take a few times to get all the air out. There is a specific procedure that works most of the time.

Why did you start replacing all those parts in the first place?

 

I was leaving work one day and it started to get warm on the gauge so I stopped and cooled it down with water and took some with me to limp home stopping before it got hot. Light came on for about a minute the first time it got hot before I got it to cool down. I Found that elbow pipe had pin holes in it and the bearing in the pump wasn't smooth and I did the thermostat for ****s. Still was getting hot fast so I put the radiator in that came extra with the truck. still getting hot

 

Here is the factory bleed procedure: Is this how you did it?

1 With engine cold, remove bleed screw from top hose.
2 Unclip the bleed hose from the battery box.
3 Remove expansion tank from its mounting bracket. Slowly fill the expansion tank with coolant, approx. 4 litres (7 pt.)
4 Raise the expansion tank approx. 20 cm (8 in) vertically, coolant will drain into the system.
5 Refill the coolant expansion tank until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed hole.
6 Fit the bleed screw then, with the expansion tank still raised, continue filling the system until the coolant level reaches the base of the expansion tank filler neck.
7 Fit expansion tank filler cap, fit the expansion tank to its mountings and clip the bleed hose to the battery box.
8 Start and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached, and check for leaks.
9 Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10 Check for leaks and top-up coolant to cold level
mark on expansion tank.

You may need to do this a few times, engine cold.

 

Ignoring this may be why it continues to get hot.
......

 

Replace the pressure cap first. After the engine runs for 15 min, see if the bottom of radiator/lower coolant hose is getting warm. Also look and feel to determine how hard the coolant hoses get; rock hard and bulging like the teenage years could be a side effect of exhaust gas. Test the cooling fan clutch by spinning it before the engine is started and check for resistance. If it spins more than 1/4 - 1/2 turn then it needs replacing. You can also stick a rolled-up newspaper or magazine into the fan with engine running and try to stop it spinning.

 

no way it would get hot so fast, the cap is bad but that's not the issue, it's starts to boil within minutes at an idle and seconds if I drive around the block and pushes all the coolant out on the overflow until there's nothing but air. It doesn't seem to be exhaust gas though.

 

thanks man I think the fan is good because it pumps good air while running but I'll try the newspaper trick tomorrow to see how much resistance it has. I'm looking for someone to tell me what I might experience if I have deep engine problems.