The pan comes off with the pick-up tube still bolted to the block.
Remove pan, remove 2 visible bolts holding pickup.
An o-ring keeps tube snug in timing cover, but the tube just pulls out.

 

I find it best to start with a small bit, slow speed. Then keep graduating to larger bits. If you go too fast you heat it up and harden it. Also spraying WD40 while drilling helps.

 

I'm gonna try this... even tho I all but have the cross member off. all but one of the bolts are sheared and that one the head is so rounded off that an extractor won't even get a bite. did you jack up the body or the frame? I have the body jacked up but maybe not high enuff. going out to yell at in a little while.also thinking I might just get someone to weld it back in place since I too think they are hardened so drilling them out would take some time and thus ... no way to refasten it

 

Jack up the frame so the suspension sags fully.
So both front wheels are barely touching the ground.
I jacked it right in the center of the crossmember you are trying to get off. Made it easier for me to place jackstands on each side.

 

ok.. thanks. it rained over here so was giving the pavement a chance to dry. heading out in a few. thanks for the rapid response. should have looked here in the first place before I started

 

you sir... absolutely nailed it!!! I will comment that I tried this and had difficulty.I tried to switch the pan around and actually got it stuck. it did give me a better access to the bottom of the pan and the pick up at first so, resolved that it wasn't coming out, I took the pick up out and decided to just scrape as much crap out of the pan as possible. ( was still missing a q-tip I was using to try to clean the pick-up the day before). when I got the pick up out I noticed there were some clean spots on some of the edge. with a smile... I crawled my butt back under and tried your " turn it around" approach and it came right out... just like you said. evidently the pan kept catching on the pick up. once I took the pick up off... it was easy peasy. I don't know where you are but, I owe you a beer or three!!! ( a six pack? lol) this should be a highlighted post because the manual makes it look like that cross member comes off with ease which, now we all realize isn't the case. pics of the carnage in the pan and strainer are coming... just got in so haven't downloaded to up load yet.

 

here are the pics in order... except the strainer in the chemical soaking. i haven't finished the pan yet ... figured I'd let it soak some more overnight.... one last question tho... did you put the gasket on before you tried to wedge it back in or did you get it up there and fit it? seems it would be easier to put it on first but, then it would maybe get hung up and come off? just trying to get an idea before I go screwing it up lol.

 

Glad you got it!
The pan gasket has tabs on it that fit in holes in the pan, they hold it in place. I would use silicone on both sides too.
The pan will come on/off with the pickup on.
Are the transmission cooler lines giving you problems/in the way? They will move enough to give you room to get the pan on with the pickup in.

I'm in the U.S, otherwise, I'de take you up on that beer, lol

 

yeah... the tranny lines and a couple other things. at one point it was the drive shaft. I'll get it now. I know it has the tabs, just wasn't sure whether it would hold it enuff to get it back up and in place. I was wondering about the silicone too because the manual says to just put it on the block. I'm in the states too BTW in central Virginia. just have an affinity for Australia and kangaroos thus the wheel cover. If you're ever heading to Virginia send me an E-mail and I'd definitely set you up. thanks again for all your help!!

 

Yes sir, glad it helped you out, and I took the driveshaft out, I'm sorry I forgot to mention that.
As for silicone, I wouldn't assemble anything without it, or something similiar.
Small world too, I'm in Va, about 25 miles south of Lynchburg.