Check the bolts holding down the valley pan. The back bolts tend to get lose. They have been known to allow slow leaking and air etc.

 

And the coolant cap could be venting rather than holding pressure. It may do this while driving. There are certainly things that could be the responsibility of the honest mechanic - and others that are just part of Murphy's Law - Volume 3.

 

^^^how to win friends and influence people^^^

 

Whoa cowpokes - I was referring to the warranty (if any) that the OP would have gotten from the honest tech that did the HG work a couple of months ago.

As for all Discos leaking coolant, nope, they don't.

As for -

You can be a lot of help but like DiscoMike, you guys have your head up your asses at times.

I'm not qualified to carry Mike's 2 mm allen wrench, or Spike's Rotella jug cap. I apologize for all my short comings, and it must seem boring to a lot of guys to read the same info droned on day after day to noobs who just found the forum, don't have the RAVE, and don't have the money to pay a pro to fix their truck.

As for the Columbia, I have at my office the 3D laser survey scanner that NASA used to reconstruct the recovered parts. Has a range of like 25 meters, so is good for fine detail inside an object. Surplus property.

 

rent or borrow a cooling system preasure tester/everything else is just guessing.

 

He speaks the truth. It is much easier to pump up the system to 15 PSI, and wait for the leaks to appear. Engine off. No noise to distract you, or moving belt to ****** your dreadlocks. Take your time. Don't stop with the first leak, there can be more than one.

 

Took jfalls advice and put in some Bar's stop leak. So far so good, no more smell. I have a long drive tomorrow so we shale see, if it comes back I'll do the pressure test next.

 

say goodbye to your radiator and heater core, never ever put that stuff in your vehicle.

 

There are good and bad things about stopz leakz. The Bar's product contains organic material, as opposed to some other brands that have sodium metasilicate (water glass). Let's assume it is something about like ground up walnut shells. Or what ever. A very small quantity of the material fills the leak. In the water glass systems the extreme heat can make a glassy solid patch form. All good so far.

What happens as an unintended consequence is that other small and rough surfaces (inside of radiators and heater cores, metering holes in thermostats) can also be blocked with the quart of stopz leakz left over. Most of these products warn you not to use in a dirty cooling system.

The stopz leakz will circulate everywhere in the cooling system. When engine off it can settle to the lower rows of the radiator and work their magic there. So if you use an IR thermometer, and look up/down on the same row of fins on the radiator, if healthy it should be 10F or less change.

The Bars in particular will coat everything, like a film. As in pix of the two water pumps. So in theory, it must reduce heat transfer somewhat. If you have an old leaky Disco, your cooling system may already be so marginal that the "extra features" that come with stopz leakz may cause problems.

So while this fix is working, it may last an unknown period, and you would not hurt yourself by monitoring coolant temps more closely. This material is found as tablets used by many GM dealers, and also in large quantity used by those attempting to fight overheating.

It has to work in some cases. But it has the potential to make things hotter, so watch carefully. The gauge will point at 50% even if overheated partially. And a 180F thermostat is available for your truck.

 

Barr’s either has copper or aluminum particles in it, depending on which one you buy. They are both death in a can. IMHO