Sounds like Maybe a push rod is bent, Maybe a valve stuck momentarily and didn't drop, and that got bent.. I've even heard a broken ring land sound that way. but you would be blowing oil out of every seal on the truck, and it would smoke like a freight train..

But yes, don't drive the truck. Not even to a mechanic...

 

I would slap whoever told you not to worry about that sound, but that is just me... It sounds like you have all sorts of problems, bad 02s, valve or lifter troubles, as well as some other stuff. I would have a talk with mike, he is sort of a yoda for rovers.

 

That sounds pretty bad, bro. I would recommend a compression test to see if it can be tracked down to a specific cylinder. It sounds slow enough to be a top end issue so it shouldn't be too difficult to fix. Pop off the valve covers with a 12 pt socket. Remove the gasket and clean it, and hopefully the compression test will tell you which cylinder you need to hone in on.

Wiggle each rocker to see if there is excessive wobble on a specific one. Remove the shafts and ensure each rocker moves freely. Check for scorched / burned / scuffed surfaces on the valve tip and the friction points of the rocker. Remove your pushrods and ensure they stay in the same order and orientation that they were removed. Roll them on a known flat surface and replace any bent one (if one is bent you may just replace them all) I don't know if you can remove lifters without pulling the valley pan, but if you can, use a telescoping magnet and remove each one, again, maintaining the proper order. Inspect the entire surface of each one. use a pushrod to push the plunger on the lifter. make sure those all use about the same pressure to push down. use a flashlight to inspect the cam lobes. You can use the starter to bump the motor so you can see each individual one.

Inspect each valve for evidence of being bent, sludge contamination, or binding. Push on each one to see if one is harder or easier than another. Some may not move much at all, it could be that it is being pushed against a piston so move the motor a little more. If you did all this, you have just looked at every component of your valve train and most likely found something. If you can do all this without moving the upper intake manifold, it will probably take you less than half the day to complete and the only thing you'll spend money on is a compression tester and whatever you decide to replace.

 

Thanks for all the replies! Im going to slowly take apart the engine to check rods, valves, lifters and any other thing that looks suspicious. Thanks again for all the help, I will post again when I find out whats wrong.

 

Replace your plugs and wires, along with your MAF. Wait on the head gasket kit unless you are loosing coolant.

CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE. just because the light isn't on, doesn't mean you are ok. Check it cold @ idle and @ 2K, then warm, the same way. Get back with the numbers. Do this before you buy anything, if your pressure is too low, the top end won't get lubed, and it will sound just like this.

 

make sure it isnt a exhaust leak before u rip the motor apart sounded like ur driver side exhaust manifold is cracked to me

 

The passenger side exhaust manifold is cracked, I noticed it when smoke was coming out from there when I did a seafoam induction cleaning. I havent done an oil pressure check and Im gonna try and get it done today, tomorrow being the latest.

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

My first inclination was an exhaust leak but once you got over the motor it sounded more metallic.

GET A NEW MANIFOLD

No matter what, it will never run right until you do. Make that your first priority.